LOOKA
RUENSign in
Menu
Ready-made pattern catalog

Choose a base block — we draft it to your measurements

Every block is drafted parametrically on engine v3 (Müller method): seam balance control, reference lengths on the draft, PDF/SVG/DXF/PLT export. The preview shows base size 48; your pattern will be made to your measurements. Patterns are not AI-generated — formula-based drafting with balance checks only; AI in the platform handles try-on, style and garment photo analysis.

🧥

Blazer dress (double-breasted)

BWHHmShB1B2B3B4W1W2W3W4H1H2H3H4Hm1Hm2Hm3Hm4 10 cm // надсечки по сторонам талиевой вытачки (при рельефах/кокетке вытачка переведена — не ставим) Side vent 20 cm (double-breasted classic) // v14.47: надсечка верха шлицы + подпись GRAINLINE // плечевой шов — к высшей точке оката // совмещение бокового шва по талии (спинка — двойная) W // контроль линии бёдер H W // середина спинки: талия H // середина спинки: бёдра // v14.11: конец потайной молнии среднего шва taper 1,0 cm 1 · BLAZER-DRESS BACK — 2 PCS (CENTER SEAM) 2 pcs · center seam shoulder 13.5 cm armhole 26 side 15.6 side 18.4 hem 28.3 · SA 3 center seam 82 neckline 8.3 · SA 0.7 lengthen or shorten // шаг 7: уголки — пройма↔плечо и пройма↔шов бочка // надсечки по сторонам талиевой вытачки GRAINLINE // пройма полочки — к окату (одинарная) // верх шва бочка — совмещение с бочком // плечевой шов — к высшей точке оката W // шов бочка: талия H // шов бочка: бёдра W // средний перед: талия H // средний перед: бёдра 2 · BLAZER-DRESS FRONT — 2 PCS 8 BUTTONS · Ø20–25 mm · two columns lapel roll linegorge point · 3.5 cm notchPeak lapel: 7 cm wide, sharp upward corner (style)collar end 6 cm · 1 cm offset waist dart and pocket here shoulder 12.6 cm FLAP POCKET (15 cm frame) the pocket is sewn into the waist dart neckline 3 · SA 0.7 armhole 9.5 hem 27.5 · SA 3 front edge 53.5 lengthen or shorten // шаг 7: уголки на стыках проймы бочка GRAINLINE // пройма бочка — к окату (одинарная) // верх шва — совмещение с полочкой BP // P1-3: метка BP на дуге бочка, напротив BP полочки W // шов: талия H // шов: бёдра W // боковой шов: талия H // боковой шов: бёдра // v14.47: метка верха боковой шлицы на бочке taper 1,0 cm 3 · BLAZER-DRESS SIDE PANEL — 2 PCS bust dart transferred into the seam · dart end rounded, 2.2 cm before the bust point · edge = front edge side 56 hem 8.6 · SA 3 side 58.6 armhole 11.4 GRAINLINE GRAINLINE ease: back 1.9 cm (zones 2–3) ease: front 1.3 cm (zones 2–3) elbow dart 2 cm vent 10 cm · 4 cm extension to the shoulder seam curve toward the armhole underarm point 4 · SLEEVE UPPER PART — 2 PCS 5 · SLEEVE UNDER PART — 2 PCS elbow lengthen or shorten notch fold line 1 cm offset 6 · SHAWL COLLAR 1 PC (FOLD) 7 · UNDER COLLAR 1 PC (FOLD) GRAINLINE top buttonhole (point L) lapel roll 8 · FRONT FACING — 2 PCS fully fused · edge 3 cm past the roll line 10,9 cm to hem · 3 cm to shoulder to the front (piece 2) along the front edge 9 · POCKET FLAP — 2 PCS GRAINLINE finished 15 × 4.5 cm · with pocket bags (#10) 10 · UPPER POCKET BAG — 2 PCS GRAINLINE LOWER POCKET BAG — 2 PCS GRAINLINE from lining fabric · with flap (piece 9) 11 · WELT — 2 PCS 17 × 4 cm · 1 cm finished into the pocket frame (piece 2) 12 · BACK NECK FACING 1 PC (FOLD) Lining: back · 1.5 cm pleat at the neckline (fold downward) Lining: front (without front facing) Lining: side panel · ×2 Lining: sleeve · ×2 Lining: sleeve — under part · ×2 stretch the back neckline 0.3–0.5 cm (pressing) shrink the back armhole 0.5–1 cm (pressing) shrink the elbow edge (pressing) stretch the front edge and gorge (pressing) side 56 cm side 56 cm armhole 46.9 cm cap 50.1 cm = crown 38 + hem 12.1 front seam 52.3 cm elbow seam 43.1 cm 52.3 43.1 top 12.1 cm — into the armhole Basic pattern v3 · Double-breasted blazer dress · seam allowances included B 96 · W 78 · H 104 cm · semi-fitted · classic patternmaking Legend: Solid line — cutting outline (piece edge incl. seam allowance) Dashed line — stitching (seam) line; allowances: seams 1 cm · neckline 0.7 cm · hem 3 cm Drafted to measurements: B 96 · W 78 · H 104 cm (≈ size 48) Finished: bust 102.5 cm (B + 6.5 cm ease) · waist 86.6 cm · hips 107 cm · length 82 cm Red arrow — grainline · circles — notches (double — back) · wedges — darts Blue edge labels — reference lengths in cm (shoulder, side seam, armhole, cap, inseam) for checking the pattern before cutting Construction lines: B — bust · W — waist · H — hips · Hm — hem · Sh — shoulder; points B1…Hm4 are checkpoints Final dimensions: back width 24.2 cm · front width 27 cm · armhole depth 26.5 cm Ease allowances (to half girth): bust +3.3 · waist +3.3 · hips +1.5 cm Blazer dress (pieces 1–5): jacket base extended to mid-thigh · double-breasted 7 cm overlap · tailored V-neckline with lapel · two side vents of 20 cm in the side seams · two-seam sleeve · front with side panel (pieces 2–3) Shawl collar (piece 6): stand 3 cm + fall 4,5 cm · setting line = neckline to the gorge − 1 cm (stretch when pressing) · notch at the shoulder seam · lapel: gorge 3,5 cm, width 7 cm, collar point 6 cm — classic patternmaking · under collar (piece 7): minus 0,4 cm at the fall and 0,2 cm at the point (roll allowance), one piece on the back center fold The 9 cm bust dart is transferred into the side-panel seam (pieces 2–3, classic rotation around the bust point): the seam edges from the armhole through the bust point to the hem are equal by construction — stitch without ease; after the panel seam is stitched, the armhole shortens to 46.9 cm — the sleeve cap is drafted to it; the waist dart and flap pocket stay on the front, the pocket is sewn into the dart · jacket construction (Burda reference) Front facing, fusible along the front edge/lapel, and the lining are separate pieces from the same patterns (see the materials specification); the lapel and collar point follow the classic tailored configuration Lining — cut from the shell pieces without front facings; 1,5 cm pleat at the back center; hem and sleeves 2 cm shorter than the shell Neckline: notches at the back center and shoulder points — match them with the collar's corresponding notches when setting in Set the sleeve in by the marks: cap top to the shoulder seam, single notch to the front armhole, double notch to the back armhole; cap ease 3.2 cm (107% of the armhole length); below the notches (zone 1) set in without ease Cap ease zones: back 1.9 cm (zone 2 — 1 cm from the double notch, zone 3 — 1 cm at the top) · front 1.3 cm (zone 2 — 0.6 cm from the single notch, zone 3 — 0.6 cm) — shrink the cap top with steam Full pocket assembly: flap (piece 9, 2 pcs shell + 2 lining) + welt (piece 11, 2 pcs shell, 17×4 cm — 1 cm wide finished, attached by the lower edge of the opening under the flap) + 15 cm opening frame marked on the front + upper and lower pocket bags (piece 10, 2 pcs each from lining, 4 layers) Back neck facing (piece 12): 1 pc on the back center fold, the outer edge follows the neckline — finishes the back neckline under the collar (reinstated from v2) Two-seam sleeve (pieces 4–5): classic roll-line split — the upper part (piece 4) carries the cap crown, the under part (piece 5) the side strips joined along the roll lines (grainline on the fold); its upper edge is the underarm section of the cap and also sets into the armhole; assembled rim 50.1 cm = cap 50.1 cm (difference 0 cm); the seams enter the cap at the underarm: front seam 5.5 cm of arc, elbow seam 6.5 cm; front seam curved 0.7 cm toward the front, front-seam edges 1:1 (52.3 = 52.3 cm); elbow seam with a 2 cm elbow dart on the upper part, the hem at the elbow seam 2 cm lower (skew compensating the dart); a 10 cm vent with a 4 cm overlap at the bottom of the elbow seam; elbow edges after stitching the dart: upper 43.1 cm / lower 43.1 cm (difference 0 cm — shrink with steam) Print at 100%! Check the 10 cm gauge line Seam matching (engine calculation) — check with a tape measure on fabric before stitching: Cap/armhole: cap 50.1 cm ↔ armhole 46.9 cm · ease 3.2 cm (ratio 1.069; set-in sleeve, steam-shrunk cap) — OK Sleeve length, absolute range by height: 59 cm · range 57…61 cm · range 57–61 cm for height 170 cm (typical sleeve length 59 cm); the entered measurement is not overridden — the wider range catches gross errors — OK Shoulder seam (back/front): 13.5 cm ↔ 12.6 cm · Δ 0.8 cm (range 0.7…1) · back ease 0.7–1.0 cm — the dart is converted to ease (steam shrinking), garment with shoulder pads — OK Side seam (back/front): 56 cm ↔ 56 cm · Δ 0 cm (range -1…1) · equal within ±1 cm — OK Side-panel seam, upper armhole↔BP (front/panel): 22 cm ↔ 22 cm · Δ 0 cm (range -0.3…0.3) · equal — rotation around the bust point preserves the edge length — OK Side-panel seam, lower BP↔hem (front/panel): 55 cm ↔ 55 cm · Δ 0 cm (range -0.3…0.3) · equal — shared seam curve by construction — OK shawl collar (half piece) / neckline to the gorge: 10 cm ↔ 11 cm · Δ -1 cm (range -1.5…-0.3) · Δ = setting line − neckline ≈ -1 cm: the setting line is SHORTER than the neckline (back + front to the gorge) — stretch when pressing (classic check); aCm is the actual curve of the piece outline — OK shawl collar — FULL setting line (gorge to gorge), absolute range: 20 cm · range 16…22.4 cm · absolute range 16–22.4 cm (from neck width BNW=6.8 cm); the actual gorge-to-gorge outline through the back neckline = 2 × the half-piece setting curve — check against the finished garment/toile — OK half back neckline (actual curve), absolute range: 8 cm · range 5.8…8.8 cm · range 5.8–8.8 cm from neck width BNW=6.8 cm (classic: BNW = neck/3 + 0.5 ≈ bust/20 + 2); the back-neck curve follows the draft outline — OK Front edge+lapel / front facing (outer edge): 115.6 cm ↔ 115.6 cm · Δ 0 cm (range -0.2…0.2) · facing outer edge = front edge, lapel and neckline edge of the front — OK Half waist girth (after darts): 43.3 cm ↔ 42.3 cm · Δ 1 cm (range -0.4…1.2) · target W/2 + 3.3 cm ease; up to +1 cm over is a waist-ease allowance (shrinks out when pressing) — OK Half hip girth: 53.5 cm ↔ 53.5 cm · Δ 0 cm (range -0.5…0.5) · equal to H/2 + 1.5 cm ease — hip-width check — OK
👗

Sheath dress

BWHHmShB1B2B3B4W1W2W3W4H1H2H3H4Hm1Hm2Hm3Hm4 10 cm // надсечки по сторонам талиевой вытачки (при рельефах/кокетке вытачка переведена — не ставим) // v14.47: надсечка верха шлицы + подпись GRAINLINE // плечевой шов — к высшей точке оката // совмещение бокового шва по талии (спинка — двойная) W // контроль линии бёдер H W // середина спинки: талия H // середина спинки: бёдра notch — zipper end (hipline) // v14.11: конец потайной молнии среднего шва taper 1,0 cm 1 · DRESS BACK — 2 PCS (CENTER SEAM, ZIPPER) 2 pcs · center seam with an invisible zipper up to the hipline shoulder 13.3 cm armhole 24.5 side 75.2 hem 24.4 · SA 3 center seam 100 neckline 7.6 · SA 0.7 lengthen or shorten // надсечки по сторонам талиевой вытачки GRAINLINE // плечевой шов — к высшей точке оката // совмещение бокового шва по талии (полочка — одинарная) W // контроль линии бёдер H // v14.47: метка верха боковой шлицы (без бочка — на полочке) W // средний перед: талия H // средний перед: бёдра taper 1,0 cm 2 · DRESS FRONT — 1 PC (FOLD) 1 piece · fold at center front shoulder 12.6 cm armhole 18.6 side 75.2 hem 29.1 · SA 3 center 97.2 neckline 10.7 · SA 0.7 lengthen or shorten GRAINLINE ease: back 1.4 cm (zones 2–3) ease: front 0.9 cm (zones 2–3) to the shoulder seam 3 · SLEEVE — 2 PCS 2 pieces elbow sleeve seam 47.9 hem 20 · SA 3 sleeve seam 47.9 cap 45.4 lengthen or shorten stretch the back neckline 0.3–0.5 cm (pressing) shrink the back armhole 0.5–1 cm (pressing) shrink the elbow edge (pressing) side 75.2 cm side 75.2 cm armhole 43.1 cm cap 45.4 cm Basic pattern v3 · seam allowances included B 96 · W 78 · H 104 cm · semi-fitted · classic patternmaking Legend: Solid line — cutting outline (piece edge incl. seam allowance) Dashed line — stitching (seam) line; allowances: seams 1 cm · neckline 0.7 cm · hem 3 cm Drafted to measurements: B 96 · W 78 · H 104 cm (≈ size 48) Finished: bust 101 cm (B + 5 cm ease) · waist 82 cm · hips 107 cm · length 100 cm Red arrow — grainline · circles — notches (double — back) · wedges — darts Blue edge labels — reference lengths in cm (shoulder, side seam, armhole, cap, inseam) for checking the pattern before cutting Construction lines: B — bust · W — waist · H — hips · Hm — hem · Sh — shoulder; points B1…Hm4 are checkpoints Final dimensions: back width 23.9 cm · front width 26.6 cm · armhole depth 25.5 cm Ease allowances (to half girth): bust +2.5 · waist +1 · hips +1.5 cm Sheath dress (pieces 1–2): knee length · darts extended to the hipline · closure — invisible zipper in the back center seam up to the hipline · zipper end — notch on the center edge at the hipline Set the sleeve in by the marks: cap top to the shoulder seam, single notch to the front armhole, double notch to the back armhole; cap ease 2.3 cm (105% of the armhole length); below the notches (zone 1) set in without ease Cap ease zones: back 1.4 cm (zone 2 — 0.7 cm from the double notch, zone 3 — 0.7 cm at the top) · front 0.9 cm (zone 2 — 0.4 cm from the single notch, zone 3 — 0.4 cm) — shrink the cap top with steam Print at 100%! Check the 10 cm gauge line Seam matching (engine calculation) — check with a tape measure on fabric before stitching: Cap/armhole: cap 45.4 cm ↔ armhole 43.1 cm · ease 2.3 cm (ratio 1.052; set-in sleeve, steam-shrunk cap) — OK Sleeve length, absolute range by height: 59 cm · range 57…61 cm · range 57–61 cm for height 170 cm (typical sleeve length 59 cm); the entered measurement is not overridden — the wider range catches gross errors — OK Shoulder seam (back/front): 13.3 cm ↔ 12.6 cm · Δ 0.6 cm (range 0.3…1) · back ease 0.3–1.0 cm after stitching the shoulder dart — OK Side seam (back/front): 75.2 cm ↔ 75.2 cm · Δ 0 cm (range -1…1) · equal within ±1 cm — OK Half waist girth (after darts): 41 cm ↔ 40 cm · Δ 1 cm (range -0.4…1.2) · target W/2 + 1 cm ease; up to +1 cm over is a waist-ease allowance (shrinks out when pressing) — OK Half hip girth: 53.5 cm ↔ 53.5 cm · Δ 0 cm (range -0.5…0.5) · equal to H/2 + 1.5 cm ease — hip-width check — OK
👗

A-line dress

BWHHmShB1B2B3B4W1W2W3W4H1H2H3H4Hm1Hm2Hm3Hm4 10 cm // надсечки по сторонам талиевой вытачки (при рельефах/кокетке вытачка переведена — не ставим) // v14.47: надсечка верха шлицы + подпись GRAINLINE // плечевой шов — к высшей точке оката // совмещение бокового шва по талии (спинка — двойная) W // контроль линии бёдер H W // середина спинки: талия H // середина спинки: бёдра notch — zipper end (hipline) // v14.11: конец потайной молнии среднего шва widen 6,0 cm 1 · DRESS BACK — 2 PCS (CENTER SEAM, ZIPPER) 2 pcs · center seam with an invisible zipper up to the hipline shoulder 13.3 cm armhole 24.5 side 75.5 hem 31.4 · SA 3 center seam 100 neckline 7.6 · SA 0.7 lengthen or shorten // надсечки по сторонам талиевой вытачки GRAINLINE // плечевой шов — к высшей точке оката // совмещение бокового шва по талии (полочка — одинарная) W // контроль линии бёдер H // v14.47: метка верха боковой шлицы (без бочка — на полочке) W // средний перед: талия H // средний перед: бёдра taper 6,0 cm 2 · DRESS FRONT — 1 PC (FOLD) 1 piece · fold at center front shoulder 12.6 cm armhole 18.6 side 75.5 hem 34.1 · SA 3 center 97.2 neckline 10.7 · SA 0.7 lengthen or shorten GRAINLINE ease: back 1.4 cm (zones 2–3) ease: front 0.9 cm (zones 2–3) to the shoulder seam 3 · SLEEVE — 2 PCS 2 pieces elbow sleeve seam 47.9 hem 20 · SA 3 sleeve seam 47.9 cap 45.4 lengthen or shorten stretch the back neckline 0.3–0.5 cm (pressing) shrink the back armhole 0.5–1 cm (pressing) shrink the elbow edge (pressing) side 75.5 cm side 75.5 cm armhole 43.1 cm cap 45.4 cm Basic pattern v3 · seam allowances included B 96 · W 78 · H 104 cm · semi-fitted · classic patternmaking Legend: Solid line — cutting outline (piece edge incl. seam allowance) Dashed line — stitching (seam) line; allowances: seams 1 cm · neckline 0.7 cm · hem 3 cm Drafted to measurements: B 96 · W 78 · H 104 cm (≈ size 48) Finished: bust 101 cm (B + 5 cm ease) · waist 82 cm · hips 107 cm · length 100 cm Red arrow — grainline · circles — notches (double — back) · wedges — darts Blue edge labels — reference lengths in cm (shoulder, side seam, armhole, cap, inseam) for checking the pattern before cutting Construction lines: B — bust · W — waist · H — hips · Hm — hem · Sh — shoulder; points B1…Hm4 are checkpoints Final dimensions: back width 23.9 cm · front width 26.6 cm · armhole depth 25.5 cm Ease allowances (to half girth): bust +2.5 · waist +1 · hips +1.5 cm A-line dress (pieces 1–2): knee length · 6 cm flare at the side · darts transferred into the flare · closure — invisible zipper in the back center seam up to the hipline · zipper end — notch on the center edge at the hipline Set the sleeve in by the marks: cap top to the shoulder seam, single notch to the front armhole, double notch to the back armhole; cap ease 2.3 cm (105% of the armhole length); below the notches (zone 1) set in without ease Cap ease zones: back 1.4 cm (zone 2 — 0.7 cm from the double notch, zone 3 — 0.7 cm at the top) · front 0.9 cm (zone 2 — 0.4 cm from the single notch, zone 3 — 0.4 cm) — shrink the cap top with steam Print at 100%! Check the 10 cm gauge line Seam matching (engine calculation) — check with a tape measure on fabric before stitching: Cap/armhole: cap 45.4 cm ↔ armhole 43.1 cm · ease 2.3 cm (ratio 1.052; set-in sleeve, steam-shrunk cap) — OK Sleeve length, absolute range by height: 59 cm · range 57…61 cm · range 57–61 cm for height 170 cm (typical sleeve length 59 cm); the entered measurement is not overridden — the wider range catches gross errors — OK Shoulder seam (back/front): 13.3 cm ↔ 12.6 cm · Δ 0.6 cm (range 0.3…1) · back ease 0.3–1.0 cm after stitching the shoulder dart — OK Side seam (back/front): 75.5 cm ↔ 75.5 cm · Δ 0 cm (range -1…1) · equal within ±1 cm — OK Half waist girth (after darts): 41 cm ↔ 40 cm · Δ 1 cm (range -0.4…1.2) · target W/2 + 1 cm ease; up to +1 cm over is a waist-ease allowance (shrinks out when pressing) — OK Half hip girth: 53.5 cm ↔ 53.5 cm · Δ 0 cm (range -0.5…0.5) · equal to H/2 + 1.5 cm ease — hip-width check — OK
👙

Corset dress

BWHHmShB1B2B3B4W1W2W3W4H1H2H3H4Hm1Hm2Hm3Hm4 10 cm LACING GRAINLINE W 1 · CORSET BACK — 2 PCS shoulder 13.3 cm armhole 24.5 side 18.7 hem 21.5 · SA 3 center seam 44 neckline 7.3 · SA 0.7 GRAINLINE W fold 2 · CORSET FRONT — 1 PC (FOLD) shoulder 12.6 cm armhole 18.6 side 18.7 hem 24.3 · SA 3 center 41.2 neckline 11 · SA 0.7 stretch the back neckline 0.3–0.5 cm (pressing) shrink the back armhole 0.5–1 cm (pressing) side 18.7 cm side 18.7 cm armhole 43.1 cm Basic pattern v3 · Corset · seam allowances included B 96 · W 78 · H 104 cm · semi-fitted · classic patternmaking Legend: Solid line — cutting outline (piece edge incl. seam allowance) Dashed line — stitching (seam) line; allowances: seams 1 cm · neckline 0.7 cm · hem 3 cm Drafted to measurements: B 96 · W 78 · H 104 cm (≈ size 48) Finished: bust 101 cm (B + 5 cm ease) · waist 82 cm · hips 107 cm · length 44 cm Red arrow — grainline · circles — notches (double — back) · wedges — darts Blue edge labels — reference lengths in cm (shoulder, side seam, armhole, cap, inseam) for checking the pattern before cutting Construction lines: B — bust · W — waist · H — hips · Hm — hem · Sh — shoulder; points B1…Hm4 are checkpoints Final dimensions: back width 23.9 cm · front width 26.6 cm · armhole depth 25.5 cm Ease allowances (to half girth): bust +2.5 · waist +1 · hips +1.5 cm Corset base (pieces 1–2): princess seams through the darts · back lacing · sleeveless Sleeveless: the armholes are finished with facings or bias tape Print at 100%! Check the 10 cm gauge line Seam matching (engine calculation) — check with a tape measure on fabric before stitching: Shoulder seam (back/front): 13.3 cm ↔ 12.6 cm · Δ 0.6 cm (range 0.3…1) · back ease 0.3–1.0 cm after stitching the shoulder dart — OK Side seam (back/front): 18.7 cm ↔ 18.7 cm · Δ 0 cm (range -1…1) · equal within ±1 cm — OK Half waist girth (after darts): 41 cm ↔ 40 cm · Δ 1 cm (range -0.4…1.2) · target W/2 + 1 cm ease; up to +1 cm over is a waist-ease allowance (shrinks out when pressing) — OK Half hip girth: 53.5 cm ↔ 53.5 cm · Δ 0 cm (range -0.5…0.5) · equal to H/2 + 1.5 cm ease — hip-width check — OK
👗

Wrap dress

BWHHmShB1B2B3B4W1W2W3W4H1H2H3H4Hm1Hm2Hm3Hm4 10 cm // надсечки по сторонам талиевой вытачки (при рельефах/кокетке вытачка переведена — не ставим) // v14.47: надсечка верха шлицы + подпись GRAINLINE // плечевой шов — к высшей точке оката // совмещение бокового шва по талии (спинка — двойная) W // контроль линии бёдер H W // середина спинки: талия H // середина спинки: бёдра notch — zipper end (hipline) // v14.11: конец потайной молнии среднего шва taper 1,0 cm 1 · DRESS BACK — 2 PCS (CENTER SEAM, ZIPPER) 2 pcs · center seam with an invisible zipper up to the hipline shoulder 13.3 cm armhole 24.5 side 75.2 hem 24.4 · SA 3 center seam 100 neckline 7.6 · SA 0.7 lengthen or shorten // надсечки по сторонам талиевой вытачки GRAINLINE // плечевой шов — к высшей точке оката // совмещение бокового шва по талии (полочка — одинарная) W // контроль линии бёдер H // v14.47: метка верха боковой шлицы (без бочка — на полочке) W // средний перед: талия H // средний перед: бёдра taper 1,0 cm 2 · DRESS FRONT — 1 PC (FOLD) 1 piece · fold at center front shoulder 12.6 cm armhole 18.6 side 75.2 hem 29.1 · SA 3 center 97.2 neckline 10.7 · SA 0.7 lengthen or shorten GRAINLINE ease: back 1.4 cm (zones 2–3) ease: front 0.9 cm (zones 2–3) to the shoulder seam 3 · SLEEVE — 2 PCS 2 pieces elbow sleeve seam 47.9 hem 20 · SA 3 sleeve seam 47.9 cap 45.4 lengthen or shorten stretch the back neckline 0.3–0.5 cm (pressing) shrink the back armhole 0.5–1 cm (pressing) shrink the elbow edge (pressing) side 75.2 cm side 75.2 cm armhole 43.1 cm cap 45.4 cm Basic pattern v3 · seam allowances included B 96 · W 78 · H 104 cm · semi-fitted · classic patternmaking Legend: Solid line — cutting outline (piece edge incl. seam allowance) Dashed line — stitching (seam) line; allowances: seams 1 cm · neckline 0.7 cm · hem 3 cm Drafted to measurements: B 96 · W 78 · H 104 cm (≈ size 48) Finished: bust 101 cm (B + 5 cm ease) · waist 82 cm · hips 107 cm · length 100 cm Red arrow — grainline · circles — notches (double — back) · wedges — darts Blue edge labels — reference lengths in cm (shoulder, side seam, armhole, cap, inseam) for checking the pattern before cutting Construction lines: B — bust · W — waist · H — hips · Hm — hem · Sh — shoulder; points B1…Hm4 are checkpoints Final dimensions: back width 23.9 cm · front width 26.6 cm · armhole depth 25.5 cm Ease allowances (to half girth): bust +2.5 · waist +1 · hips +1.5 cm Sheath dress (pieces 1–2): knee length · darts extended to the hipline · closure — invisible zipper in the back center seam up to the hipline · zipper end — notch on the center edge at the hipline Set the sleeve in by the marks: cap top to the shoulder seam, single notch to the front armhole, double notch to the back armhole; cap ease 2.3 cm (105% of the armhole length); below the notches (zone 1) set in without ease Cap ease zones: back 1.4 cm (zone 2 — 0.7 cm from the double notch, zone 3 — 0.7 cm at the top) · front 0.9 cm (zone 2 — 0.4 cm from the single notch, zone 3 — 0.4 cm) — shrink the cap top with steam Print at 100%! Check the 10 cm gauge line Seam matching (engine calculation) — check with a tape measure on fabric before stitching: Cap/armhole: cap 45.4 cm ↔ armhole 43.1 cm · ease 2.3 cm (ratio 1.052; set-in sleeve, steam-shrunk cap) — OK Sleeve length, absolute range by height: 59 cm · range 57…61 cm · range 57–61 cm for height 170 cm (typical sleeve length 59 cm); the entered measurement is not overridden — the wider range catches gross errors — OK Shoulder seam (back/front): 13.3 cm ↔ 12.6 cm · Δ 0.6 cm (range 0.3…1) · back ease 0.3–1.0 cm after stitching the shoulder dart — OK Side seam (back/front): 75.2 cm ↔ 75.2 cm · Δ 0 cm (range -1…1) · equal within ±1 cm — OK Half waist girth (after darts): 41 cm ↔ 40 cm · Δ 1 cm (range -0.4…1.2) · target W/2 + 1 cm ease; up to +1 cm over is a waist-ease allowance (shrinks out when pressing) — OK Half hip girth: 53.5 cm ↔ 53.5 cm · Δ 0 cm (range -0.5…0.5) · equal to H/2 + 1.5 cm ease — hip-width check — OK
👗

Shirt dress

BWHHmShB1B2B3B4W1W2W3W4H1H2H3H4Hm1Hm2Hm3Hm4 10 cm // надсечки по сторонам талиевой вытачки (при рельефах/кокетке вытачка переведена — не ставим) // v14.47: надсечка верха шлицы + подпись GRAINLINE // плечевой шов — к высшей точке оката // совмещение бокового шва по талии (спинка — двойная) W // контроль линии бёдер H W // середина спинки: талия H // середина спинки: бёдра notch — zipper end (hipline) // v14.11: конец потайной молнии среднего шва taper 1,0 cm 1 · DRESS BACK — 2 PCS (CENTER SEAM, ZIPPER) 2 pcs · center seam with an invisible zipper up to the hipline shoulder 13.3 cm armhole 24.5 side 75.2 hem 24.4 · SA 3 center seam 100 neckline 7.6 · SA 0.7 lengthen or shorten // надсечки по сторонам талиевой вытачки GRAINLINE // плечевой шов — к высшей точке оката // совмещение бокового шва по талии (полочка — одинарная) W // контроль линии бёдер H // v14.47: метка верха боковой шлицы (без бочка — на полочке) W // средний перед: талия H // средний перед: бёдра taper 1,0 cm 2 · DRESS FRONT — 1 PC (FOLD) 1 piece · fold at center front shoulder 12.6 cm armhole 18.6 side 75.2 hem 29.1 · SA 3 center 97.2 neckline 10.7 · SA 0.7 lengthen or shorten GRAINLINE ease: back 1.4 cm (zones 2–3) ease: front 0.9 cm (zones 2–3) to the shoulder seam 3 · SLEEVE — 2 PCS 2 pieces elbow sleeve seam 47.9 hem 20 · SA 3 sleeve seam 47.9 cap 45.4 lengthen or shorten stretch the back neckline 0.3–0.5 cm (pressing) shrink the back armhole 0.5–1 cm (pressing) shrink the elbow edge (pressing) side 75.2 cm side 75.2 cm armhole 43.1 cm cap 45.4 cm Basic pattern v3 · seam allowances included B 96 · W 78 · H 104 cm · semi-fitted · classic patternmaking Legend: Solid line — cutting outline (piece edge incl. seam allowance) Dashed line — stitching (seam) line; allowances: seams 1 cm · neckline 0.7 cm · hem 3 cm Drafted to measurements: B 96 · W 78 · H 104 cm (≈ size 48) Finished: bust 101 cm (B + 5 cm ease) · waist 82 cm · hips 107 cm · length 100 cm Red arrow — grainline · circles — notches (double — back) · wedges — darts Blue edge labels — reference lengths in cm (shoulder, side seam, armhole, cap, inseam) for checking the pattern before cutting Construction lines: B — bust · W — waist · H — hips · Hm — hem · Sh — shoulder; points B1…Hm4 are checkpoints Final dimensions: back width 23.9 cm · front width 26.6 cm · armhole depth 25.5 cm Ease allowances (to half girth): bust +2.5 · waist +1 · hips +1.5 cm Sheath dress (pieces 1–2): knee length · darts extended to the hipline · closure — invisible zipper in the back center seam up to the hipline · zipper end — notch on the center edge at the hipline Set the sleeve in by the marks: cap top to the shoulder seam, single notch to the front armhole, double notch to the back armhole; cap ease 2.3 cm (105% of the armhole length); below the notches (zone 1) set in without ease Cap ease zones: back 1.4 cm (zone 2 — 0.7 cm from the double notch, zone 3 — 0.7 cm at the top) · front 0.9 cm (zone 2 — 0.4 cm from the single notch, zone 3 — 0.4 cm) — shrink the cap top with steam Print at 100%! Check the 10 cm gauge line Seam matching (engine calculation) — check with a tape measure on fabric before stitching: Cap/armhole: cap 45.4 cm ↔ armhole 43.1 cm · ease 2.3 cm (ratio 1.052; set-in sleeve, steam-shrunk cap) — OK Sleeve length, absolute range by height: 59 cm · range 57…61 cm · range 57–61 cm for height 170 cm (typical sleeve length 59 cm); the entered measurement is not overridden — the wider range catches gross errors — OK Shoulder seam (back/front): 13.3 cm ↔ 12.6 cm · Δ 0.6 cm (range 0.3…1) · back ease 0.3–1.0 cm after stitching the shoulder dart — OK Side seam (back/front): 75.2 cm ↔ 75.2 cm · Δ 0 cm (range -1…1) · equal within ±1 cm — OK Half waist girth (after darts): 41 cm ↔ 40 cm · Δ 1 cm (range -0.4…1.2) · target W/2 + 1 cm ease; up to +1 cm over is a waist-ease allowance (shrinks out when pressing) — OK Half hip girth: 53.5 cm ↔ 53.5 cm · Δ 0 cm (range -0.5…0.5) · equal to H/2 + 1.5 cm ease — hip-width check — OK
👠

Floor-length evening gown

BWHHmShB1B2B3B4W1W2W3W4H1H2H3H4Hm1Hm2Hm3Hm4 10 cm LACING GRAINLINE W 1 · CORSET BACK — 2 PCS shoulder 13.3 cm armhole 24.5 side 18.7 hem 21.5 · SA 3 center seam 44 neckline 7.3 · SA 0.7 GRAINLINE W fold 2 · CORSET FRONT — 1 PC (FOLD) shoulder 12.6 cm armhole 18.6 side 18.7 hem 24.3 · SA 3 center 41.2 neckline 11 · SA 0.7 stretch the back neckline 0.3–0.5 cm (pressing) shrink the back armhole 0.5–1 cm (pressing) side 18.7 cm side 18.7 cm armhole 43.1 cm Basic pattern v3 · Corset · seam allowances included B 96 · W 78 · H 104 cm · semi-fitted · classic patternmaking Legend: Solid line — cutting outline (piece edge incl. seam allowance) Dashed line — stitching (seam) line; allowances: seams 1 cm · neckline 0.7 cm · hem 3 cm Drafted to measurements: B 96 · W 78 · H 104 cm (≈ size 48) Finished: bust 101 cm (B + 5 cm ease) · waist 82 cm · hips 107 cm · length 44 cm Red arrow — grainline · circles — notches (double — back) · wedges — darts Blue edge labels — reference lengths in cm (shoulder, side seam, armhole, cap, inseam) for checking the pattern before cutting Construction lines: B — bust · W — waist · H — hips · Hm — hem · Sh — shoulder; points B1…Hm4 are checkpoints Final dimensions: back width 23.9 cm · front width 26.6 cm · armhole depth 25.5 cm Ease allowances (to half girth): bust +2.5 · waist +1 · hips +1.5 cm Corset base (pieces 1–2): princess seams through the darts · back lacing · sleeveless Sleeveless: the armholes are finished with facings or bias tape Print at 100%! Check the 10 cm gauge line Seam matching (engine calculation) — check with a tape measure on fabric before stitching: Shoulder seam (back/front): 13.3 cm ↔ 12.6 cm · Δ 0.6 cm (range 0.3…1) · back ease 0.3–1.0 cm after stitching the shoulder dart — OK Side seam (back/front): 18.7 cm ↔ 18.7 cm · Δ 0 cm (range -1…1) · equal within ±1 cm — OK Half waist girth (after darts): 41 cm ↔ 40 cm · Δ 1 cm (range -0.4…1.2) · target W/2 + 1 cm ease; up to +1 cm over is a waist-ease allowance (shrinks out when pressing) — OK Half hip girth: 53.5 cm ↔ 53.5 cm · Δ 0 cm (range -0.5…0.5) · equal to H/2 + 1.5 cm ease — hip-width check — OK
👔

Blouse / shirt

BWHHmShB1B2B3B4W1W2W3W4H1H2H3H4Hm1Hm2Hm3Hm4 10 cm // надсечки по сторонам талиевой вытачки (при рельефах/кокетке вытачка переведена — не ставим) // v14.47: надсечка верха шлицы + подпись GRAINLINE // плечевой шов — к высшей точке оката // совмещение бокового шва по талии (спинка — двойная) W // контроль линии бёдер H W // середина спинки: талия H // середина спинки: бёдра notch — zipper end (hipline) // v14.11: конец потайной молнии среднего шва taper 1,0 cm 1 · DRESS BACK — 2 PCS (CENTER SEAM, ZIPPER) 2 pcs · center seam with an invisible zipper up to the hipline shoulder 13.3 cm armhole 24.5 side 75.2 hem 24.4 · SA 3 center seam 100 neckline 7.6 · SA 0.7 lengthen or shorten // надсечки по сторонам талиевой вытачки GRAINLINE // плечевой шов — к высшей точке оката // совмещение бокового шва по талии (полочка — одинарная) W // контроль линии бёдер H // v14.47: метка верха боковой шлицы (без бочка — на полочке) W // средний перед: талия H // средний перед: бёдра taper 1,0 cm 2 · DRESS FRONT — 1 PC (FOLD) 1 piece · fold at center front shoulder 12.6 cm armhole 18.6 side 75.2 hem 29.1 · SA 3 center 97.2 neckline 10.7 · SA 0.7 lengthen or shorten GRAINLINE ease: back 1.4 cm (zones 2–3) ease: front 0.9 cm (zones 2–3) to the shoulder seam 3 · SLEEVE — 2 PCS 2 pieces elbow sleeve seam 47.9 hem 20 · SA 3 sleeve seam 47.9 cap 45.4 lengthen or shorten stretch the back neckline 0.3–0.5 cm (pressing) shrink the back armhole 0.5–1 cm (pressing) shrink the elbow edge (pressing) side 75.2 cm side 75.2 cm armhole 43.1 cm cap 45.4 cm Basic pattern v3 · seam allowances included B 96 · W 78 · H 104 cm · semi-fitted · classic patternmaking Legend: Solid line — cutting outline (piece edge incl. seam allowance) Dashed line — stitching (seam) line; allowances: seams 1 cm · neckline 0.7 cm · hem 3 cm Drafted to measurements: B 96 · W 78 · H 104 cm (≈ size 48) Finished: bust 101 cm (B + 5 cm ease) · waist 82 cm · hips 107 cm · length 100 cm Red arrow — grainline · circles — notches (double — back) · wedges — darts Blue edge labels — reference lengths in cm (shoulder, side seam, armhole, cap, inseam) for checking the pattern before cutting Construction lines: B — bust · W — waist · H — hips · Hm — hem · Sh — shoulder; points B1…Hm4 are checkpoints Final dimensions: back width 23.9 cm · front width 26.6 cm · armhole depth 25.5 cm Ease allowances (to half girth): bust +2.5 · waist +1 · hips +1.5 cm Sheath dress (pieces 1–2): knee length · darts extended to the hipline · closure — invisible zipper in the back center seam up to the hipline · zipper end — notch on the center edge at the hipline Set the sleeve in by the marks: cap top to the shoulder seam, single notch to the front armhole, double notch to the back armhole; cap ease 2.3 cm (105% of the armhole length); below the notches (zone 1) set in without ease Cap ease zones: back 1.4 cm (zone 2 — 0.7 cm from the double notch, zone 3 — 0.7 cm at the top) · front 0.9 cm (zone 2 — 0.4 cm from the single notch, zone 3 — 0.4 cm) — shrink the cap top with steam Print at 100%! Check the 10 cm gauge line Seam matching (engine calculation) — check with a tape measure on fabric before stitching: Cap/armhole: cap 45.4 cm ↔ armhole 43.1 cm · ease 2.3 cm (ratio 1.052; set-in sleeve, steam-shrunk cap) — OK Sleeve length, absolute range by height: 59 cm · range 57…61 cm · range 57–61 cm for height 170 cm (typical sleeve length 59 cm); the entered measurement is not overridden — the wider range catches gross errors — OK Shoulder seam (back/front): 13.3 cm ↔ 12.6 cm · Δ 0.6 cm (range 0.3…1) · back ease 0.3–1.0 cm after stitching the shoulder dart — OK Side seam (back/front): 75.2 cm ↔ 75.2 cm · Δ 0 cm (range -1…1) · equal within ±1 cm — OK Half waist girth (after darts): 41 cm ↔ 40 cm · Δ 1 cm (range -0.4…1.2) · target W/2 + 1 cm ease; up to +1 cm over is a waist-ease allowance (shrinks out when pressing) — OK Half hip girth: 53.5 cm ↔ 53.5 cm · Δ 0 cm (range -0.5…0.5) · equal to H/2 + 1.5 cm ease — hip-width check — OK
👕

T-shirt

BWHHmShB1B2B3B4W1W2W3W4H1H2H3H4Hm1Hm2Hm3Hm4 10 cm Shoulder length 12.6 cm // надсечки по сторонам талиевой вытачки (сборка: стачать к вершине) GRAINLINE // плечевой шов — к высшей точке оката // совмещение бокового шва по талии (спинка — двойная) W // контроль линии бёдер H W // середина спинки: талия H // середина спинки: бёдра widen 0,6 cm 1 · BACK — 1 PC (FOLD) 1 piece · fold fold along the center shoulder 13.3 cm armhole 24 side 38 hem 25.6 · SA 3 center seam 62 neckline 7.6 · SA 0.7 lengthen or shorten // надсечки по сторонам талиевой вытачки GRAINLINE // плечевой шов — к высшей точке оката // совмещение бокового шва по талии (полочка — одинарная) W // контроль линии бёдер H W // середина переда: талия H // середина переда: бёдра taper 0,6 cm 2 · FRONT — 2 PCS 2 pieces fold or seam at center shoulder 12.6 cm armhole 22.3 side 38 hem 27.9 · SA 3 center 52.2 neckline 11.1 · SA 0.7 lengthen or shorten GRAINLINE ease: back 0.8 cm (zones 2–3) ease: front 0.5 cm (zones 2–3) to the shoulder seam 3 · SLEEVE — 2 PCS 2 pieces elbow sleeve seam 48 hem 20 · SA 3 sleeve seam 48 cap 47.7 lengthen or shorten stretch the back neckline 0.3–0.5 cm (pressing) shrink the back armhole 0.5–1 cm (pressing) shrink the elbow edge (pressing) side 37.9 cm side 37.9 cm armhole 46.4 cm cap 47.7 cm Basic pattern v3 · Knit · seam allowances included B 96 · W 78 · H 104 cm · semi-fitted · classic patternmaking Legend: Solid line — cutting outline (piece edge incl. seam allowance) Dashed line — stitching (seam) line; allowances: seams 1 cm · neckline 0.7 cm · hem 3 cm Drafted to measurements: B 96 · W 78 · H 104 cm (≈ size 48) Finished: bust 92 cm (B + -4 cm ease) · waist 82 cm · hips 107 cm · length 62 cm Red arrow — grainline · circles — notches (double — back) · wedges — darts Blue edge labels — reference lengths in cm (shoulder, side seam, armhole, cap, inseam) for checking the pattern before cutting Construction lines: B — bust · W — waist · H — hips · Hm — hem · Sh — shoulder; points B1…Hm4 are checkpoints Final dimensions: back width 21.9 cm · front width 24.2 cm · armhole depth 25.5 cm Ease allowances (to half girth): bust +-2 · waist +1 · hips +1.5 cm Трикотажная основа (дет. 1–3): БЕЗ ВЫТАЧЕК · прибавка Пг -2 cm (растяжимость полотна: слабая (~15–20%)) · окат понижен, посадка минимальная · лиф до бёдер ПРОВЕРЬТЕ ОБРАЗЕЦ ТКАНИ: растяните 10 cm полотна по ширине и измерьте приheight (%); если фактическая растяжимость выше расчётной — уменьшите ширину ещё на 1–2 cm, если ниже — изделие будет мало (решение технолога) Set the sleeve in by the marks: cap top to the shoulder seam, single notch to the front armhole, double notch to the back armhole; cap ease 1.3 cm (103% of the armhole length); below the notches (zone 1) set in without ease Зоны посадки оката: спинка 0.8 cm (зона 2 — 0.4 cm от двойной надсечки, зона 3 — 0.4 cm у высшей точки) · полочка 0.5 cm (зона 2 — 0.3 cm от одинарной надсечки, зона 3 — 0.3 cm) — сутюжить верх оката; трикотаж: посадка минимальная, без сутюжки Print at 100%! Check the 10 cm gauge line Seam matching (engine calculation) — check with a tape measure on fabric before stitching: Cap/armhole: cap 47.7 cm ↔ armhole 46.4 cm · ease 1.3 cm (ratio 1.028; knit, minimal ease) — OK Sleeve length, absolute range by height: 59 cm · range 57…61 cm · range 57–61 cm for height 170 cm (typical sleeve length 59 cm); the entered measurement is not overridden — the wider range catches gross errors — OK Shoulder seam (back/front): 13.3 cm ↔ 12.6 cm · Δ 0.6 cm (range 0.3…1) · back ease 0.3–1.0 cm after stitching the shoulder dart — OK Side seam (back/front): 37.9 cm ↔ 37.9 cm · Δ 0 cm (range -1…1) · equal within ±1 cm — OK Half hip girth: 53.5 cm ↔ 53.5 cm · Δ 0 cm (range -0.5…0.5) · equal to H/2 + 1.5 cm ease — hip-width check — OK
🧥

Hoodie / sweatshirt

BWHHmShB1B2B3B4W1W2W3W4H1H2H3H4Hm1Hm2Hm3Hm4 10 cm Shoulder length 12.6 cm // надсечки по сторонам талиевой вытачки (сборка: стачать к вершине) GRAINLINE // плечевой шов — к высшей точке оката // совмещение бокового шва по талии (спинка — двойная) W // контроль линии бёдер H W // середина спинки: талия H // середина спинки: бёдра widen 0,6 cm 1 · BACK — 1 PC (FOLD) 1 piece · fold fold along the center shoulder 13.3 cm armhole 24 side 38 hem 25.6 · SA 3 center seam 62 neckline 7.6 · SA 0.7 lengthen or shorten // надсечки по сторонам талиевой вытачки GRAINLINE // плечевой шов — к высшей точке оката // совмещение бокового шва по талии (полочка — одинарная) W // контроль линии бёдер H W // середина переда: талия H // середина переда: бёдра taper 0,6 cm 2 · FRONT — 2 PCS 2 pieces fold or seam at center shoulder 12.6 cm armhole 22.3 side 38 hem 27.9 · SA 3 center 52.2 neckline 11.1 · SA 0.7 lengthen or shorten GRAINLINE ease: back 0.8 cm (zones 2–3) ease: front 0.5 cm (zones 2–3) to the shoulder seam 3 · SLEEVE — 2 PCS 2 pieces elbow sleeve seam 48 hem 20 · SA 3 sleeve seam 48 cap 47.7 lengthen or shorten stretch the back neckline 0.3–0.5 cm (pressing) shrink the back armhole 0.5–1 cm (pressing) shrink the elbow edge (pressing) side 37.9 cm side 37.9 cm armhole 46.4 cm cap 47.7 cm Basic pattern v3 · Knit · seam allowances included B 96 · W 78 · H 104 cm · semi-fitted · classic patternmaking Legend: Solid line — cutting outline (piece edge incl. seam allowance) Dashed line — stitching (seam) line; allowances: seams 1 cm · neckline 0.7 cm · hem 3 cm Drafted to measurements: B 96 · W 78 · H 104 cm (≈ size 48) Finished: bust 92 cm (B + -4 cm ease) · waist 82 cm · hips 107 cm · length 62 cm Red arrow — grainline · circles — notches (double — back) · wedges — darts Blue edge labels — reference lengths in cm (shoulder, side seam, armhole, cap, inseam) for checking the pattern before cutting Construction lines: B — bust · W — waist · H — hips · Hm — hem · Sh — shoulder; points B1…Hm4 are checkpoints Final dimensions: back width 21.9 cm · front width 24.2 cm · armhole depth 25.5 cm Ease allowances (to half girth): bust +-2 · waist +1 · hips +1.5 cm Трикотажная основа (дет. 1–3): БЕЗ ВЫТАЧЕК · прибавка Пг -2 cm (растяжимость полотна: слабая (~15–20%)) · окат понижен, посадка минимальная · лиф до бёдер ПРОВЕРЬТЕ ОБРАЗЕЦ ТКАНИ: растяните 10 cm полотна по ширине и измерьте приheight (%); если фактическая растяжимость выше расчётной — уменьшите ширину ещё на 1–2 cm, если ниже — изделие будет мало (решение технолога) Set the sleeve in by the marks: cap top to the shoulder seam, single notch to the front armhole, double notch to the back armhole; cap ease 1.3 cm (103% of the armhole length); below the notches (zone 1) set in without ease Зоны посадки оката: спинка 0.8 cm (зона 2 — 0.4 cm от двойной надсечки, зона 3 — 0.4 cm у высшей точки) · полочка 0.5 cm (зона 2 — 0.3 cm от одинарной надсечки, зона 3 — 0.3 cm) — сутюжить верх оката; трикотаж: посадка минимальная, без сутюжки Print at 100%! Check the 10 cm gauge line Seam matching (engine calculation) — check with a tape measure on fabric before stitching: Cap/armhole: cap 47.7 cm ↔ armhole 46.4 cm · ease 1.3 cm (ratio 1.028; knit, minimal ease) — OK Sleeve length, absolute range by height: 59 cm · range 57…61 cm · range 57–61 cm for height 170 cm (typical sleeve length 59 cm); the entered measurement is not overridden — the wider range catches gross errors — OK Shoulder seam (back/front): 13.3 cm ↔ 12.6 cm · Δ 0.6 cm (range 0.3…1) · back ease 0.3–1.0 cm after stitching the shoulder dart — OK Side seam (back/front): 37.9 cm ↔ 37.9 cm · Δ 0 cm (range -1…1) · equal within ±1 cm — OK Half hip girth: 53.5 cm ↔ 53.5 cm · Δ 0 cm (range -0.5…0.5) · equal to H/2 + 1.5 cm ease — hip-width check — OK
🧶

Sweater / jumper

BWHHmShB1B2B3B4W1W2W3W4H1H2H3H4Hm1Hm2Hm3Hm4 10 cm Shoulder length 12.6 cm // надсечки по сторонам талиевой вытачки (сборка: стачать к вершине) GRAINLINE // плечевой шов — к высшей точке оката // совмещение бокового шва по талии (спинка — двойная) W // контроль линии бёдер H W // середина спинки: талия H // середина спинки: бёдра widen 0,6 cm 1 · BACK — 1 PC (FOLD) 1 piece · fold fold along the center shoulder 13.3 cm armhole 24 side 38 hem 25.6 · SA 3 center seam 62 neckline 7.6 · SA 0.7 lengthen or shorten // надсечки по сторонам талиевой вытачки GRAINLINE // плечевой шов — к высшей точке оката // совмещение бокового шва по талии (полочка — одинарная) W // контроль линии бёдер H W // середина переда: талия H // середина переда: бёдра taper 0,6 cm 2 · FRONT — 2 PCS 2 pieces fold or seam at center shoulder 12.6 cm armhole 22.3 side 38 hem 27.9 · SA 3 center 52.2 neckline 11.1 · SA 0.7 lengthen or shorten GRAINLINE ease: back 0.8 cm (zones 2–3) ease: front 0.5 cm (zones 2–3) to the shoulder seam 3 · SLEEVE — 2 PCS 2 pieces elbow sleeve seam 48 hem 20 · SA 3 sleeve seam 48 cap 47.7 lengthen or shorten stretch the back neckline 0.3–0.5 cm (pressing) shrink the back armhole 0.5–1 cm (pressing) shrink the elbow edge (pressing) side 37.9 cm side 37.9 cm armhole 46.4 cm cap 47.7 cm Basic pattern v3 · Knit · seam allowances included B 96 · W 78 · H 104 cm · semi-fitted · classic patternmaking Legend: Solid line — cutting outline (piece edge incl. seam allowance) Dashed line — stitching (seam) line; allowances: seams 1 cm · neckline 0.7 cm · hem 3 cm Drafted to measurements: B 96 · W 78 · H 104 cm (≈ size 48) Finished: bust 92 cm (B + -4 cm ease) · waist 82 cm · hips 107 cm · length 62 cm Red arrow — grainline · circles — notches (double — back) · wedges — darts Blue edge labels — reference lengths in cm (shoulder, side seam, armhole, cap, inseam) for checking the pattern before cutting Construction lines: B — bust · W — waist · H — hips · Hm — hem · Sh — shoulder; points B1…Hm4 are checkpoints Final dimensions: back width 21.9 cm · front width 24.2 cm · armhole depth 25.5 cm Ease allowances (to half girth): bust +-2 · waist +1 · hips +1.5 cm Трикотажная основа (дет. 1–3): БЕЗ ВЫТАЧЕК · прибавка Пг -2 cm (растяжимость полотна: слабая (~15–20%)) · окат понижен, посадка минимальная · лиф до бёдер ПРОВЕРЬТЕ ОБРАЗЕЦ ТКАНИ: растяните 10 cm полотна по ширине и измерьте приheight (%); если фактическая растяжимость выше расчётной — уменьшите ширину ещё на 1–2 cm, если ниже — изделие будет мало (решение технолога) Set the sleeve in by the marks: cap top to the shoulder seam, single notch to the front armhole, double notch to the back armhole; cap ease 1.3 cm (103% of the armhole length); below the notches (zone 1) set in without ease Зоны посадки оката: спинка 0.8 cm (зона 2 — 0.4 cm от двойной надсечки, зона 3 — 0.4 cm у высшей точки) · полочка 0.5 cm (зона 2 — 0.3 cm от одинарной надсечки, зона 3 — 0.3 cm) — сутюжить верх оката; трикотаж: посадка минимальная, без сутюжки Print at 100%! Check the 10 cm gauge line Seam matching (engine calculation) — check with a tape measure on fabric before stitching: Cap/armhole: cap 47.7 cm ↔ armhole 46.4 cm · ease 1.3 cm (ratio 1.028; knit, minimal ease) — OK Sleeve length, absolute range by height: 59 cm · range 57…61 cm · range 57–61 cm for height 170 cm (typical sleeve length 59 cm); the entered measurement is not overridden — the wider range catches gross errors — OK Shoulder seam (back/front): 13.3 cm ↔ 12.6 cm · Δ 0.6 cm (range 0.3…1) · back ease 0.3–1.0 cm after stitching the shoulder dart — OK Side seam (back/front): 37.9 cm ↔ 37.9 cm · Δ 0 cm (range -1…1) · equal within ±1 cm — OK Half hip girth: 53.5 cm ↔ 53.5 cm · Δ 0 cm (range -0.5…0.5) · equal to H/2 + 1.5 cm ease — hip-width check — OK
🧥

Jacket / blazer

BWHHmShB1B2B3B4W1W2W3W4H1H2H3H4Hm1Hm2Hm3Hm4 10 cm // надсечки по сторонам талиевой вытачки (при рельефах/кокетке вытачка переведена — не ставим) // v14.47: надсечка верха шлицы + подпись GRAINLINE // плечевой шов — к высшей точке оката // совмещение бокового шва по талии (спинка — двойная) W // контроль линии бёдер H W // середина спинки: талия H // середина спинки: бёдра // v14.11: конец потайной молнии среднего шва taper 1,0 cm 1 · JACKET BACK — 2 PCS (CENTER SEAM, VENT) 2 pcs · center seam with a vent shoulder 13.5 cm armhole 26 side 43.1 hem 24.3 · SA 3 center seam 69 neckline 8.3 · SA 0.7 lengthen or shorten // шаг 7: уголки — пройма↔плечо и пройма↔шов бочка // надсечки по сторонам талиевой вытачки GRAINLINE // пройма полочки — к окату (одинарная) // верх шва бочка — совмещение с бочком // плечевой шов — к высшей точке оката W // шов бочка: талия H // шов бочка: бёдра W // средний перед: талия H // средний перед: бёдра 2 · JACKET FRONT — 2 PCS 2 BUTTONS · Ø15–20 mm lapel roll linegorge point · 3.5 cm notchLapel · width 7 cm (style)collar end 6 cm · 1 cm offset waist dart and pocket here shoulder 12.6 cm FLAP POCKET (15 cm frame) the pocket is sewn into the waist dart neckline 3 · SA 0.7 armhole 9.5 hem 24 · SA 3 front edge 34.5 lengthen or shorten // шаг 7: уголки на стыках проймы бочка GRAINLINE // пройма бочка — к окату (одинарная) // верх шва — совмещение с полочкой BP // P1-3: метка BP на дуге бочка, напротив BP полочки W // шов: талия H // шов: бёдра W // боковой шов: талия H // боковой шов: бёдра // v14.47: метка верха боковой шлицы на бочке taper 1,0 cm 3 · JACKET SIDE PANEL — 2 PCS bust dart transferred into the seam · dart end rounded, 2.2 cm before the bust point · edge = front edge side 43 hem 8.6 · SA 3 side 45.6 armhole 11.4 GRAINLINE GRAINLINE ease: back 1.9 cm (zones 2–3) ease: front 1.3 cm (zones 2–3) elbow dart 2 cm vent 10 cm · 4 cm extension to the shoulder seam curve toward the armhole underarm point 4 · SLEEVE UPPER PART — 2 PCS 5 · SLEEVE UNDER PART — 2 PCS elbow lengthen or shorten notch fold line 1 cm offset 6 · SHAWL COLLAR 1 PC (FOLD) 7 · UNDER COLLAR 1 PC (FOLD) GRAINLINE top buttonhole (point L) lapel roll 8 · FRONT FACING — 2 PCS fully fused · edge 3 cm past the roll line 4 cm to hem · 3 cm to shoulder to the front (piece 2) along the front edge 9 · POCKET FLAP — 2 PCS GRAINLINE finished 15 × 4.5 cm · with pocket bags (#10) 10 · UPPER POCKET BAG — 2 PCS GRAINLINE LOWER POCKET BAG — 2 PCS GRAINLINE from lining fabric · with flap (piece 9) 11 · WELT — 2 PCS 17 × 4 cm · 1 cm finished into the pocket frame (piece 2) 12 · BACK NECK FACING 1 PC (FOLD) Lining: back · 1.5 cm pleat at the neckline (fold downward) Lining: front (without front facing) Lining: side panel · ×2 Lining: sleeve · ×2 Lining: sleeve — under part · ×2 VENT 20 cm stretch the back neckline 0.3–0.5 cm (pressing) shrink the back armhole 0.5–1 cm (pressing) shrink the elbow edge (pressing) stretch the front edge and gorge (pressing) side 43.1 cm side 43 cm armhole 46.9 cm cap 50.1 cm = crown 38 + hem 12.1 front seam 52.3 cm elbow seam 43.1 cm 52.3 43.1 top 12.1 cm — into the armhole Basic pattern v3 · Jacket · seam allowances included B 96 · W 78 · H 104 cm · semi-fitted · classic patternmaking Legend: Solid line — cutting outline (piece edge incl. seam allowance) Dashed line — stitching (seam) line; allowances: seams 1 cm · neckline 0.7 cm · hem 3 cm Drafted to measurements: B 96 · W 78 · H 104 cm (≈ size 48) Finished: bust 102.5 cm (B + 6.5 cm ease) · waist 86.6 cm · hips 107 cm · length 69 cm Red arrow — grainline · circles — notches (double — back) · wedges — darts Blue edge labels — reference lengths in cm (shoulder, side seam, armhole, cap, inseam) for checking the pattern before cutting Construction lines: B — bust · W — waist · H — hips · Hm — hem · Sh — shoulder; points B1…Hm4 are checkpoints Final dimensions: back width 24.2 cm · front width 27 cm · armhole depth 26.5 cm Ease allowances (to half girth): bust +3.3 · waist +3.3 · hips +1.5 cm Jacket (pieces 1–5): extended 9 cm below the hipline · single-breasted 3,5 cm overlap · tailored V-neckline with lapel · 20 cm vent in the back center seam · two-seam sleeve · front with side panel (pieces 2–3) Shawl collar (piece 6): stand 3 cm + fall 4,5 cm · setting line = neckline to the gorge − 1 cm (stretch when pressing) · notch at the shoulder seam · lapel: gorge 3,5 cm, width 7 cm, collar point 6 cm — classic patternmaking · under collar (piece 7): minus 0,4 cm at the fall and 0,2 cm at the point (roll allowance), one piece on the back center fold The 9 cm bust dart is transferred into the side-panel seam (pieces 2–3, classic rotation around the bust point): the seam edges from the armhole through the bust point to the hem are equal by construction — stitch without ease; after the panel seam is stitched, the armhole shortens to 46.9 cm — the sleeve cap is drafted to it; the waist dart and flap pocket stay on the front, the pocket is sewn into the dart · jacket construction (Burda reference) Front facing, fusible along the front edge/lapel, and the lining are separate pieces from the same patterns (see the materials specification); the lapel and collar point follow the classic tailored configuration Lining — cut from the shell pieces without front facings; 1,5 cm pleat at the back center; hem and sleeves 2 cm shorter than the shell Neckline: notches at the back center and shoulder points — match them with the collar's corresponding notches when setting in Set the sleeve in by the marks: cap top to the shoulder seam, single notch to the front armhole, double notch to the back armhole; cap ease 3.2 cm (107% of the armhole length); below the notches (zone 1) set in without ease Cap ease zones: back 1.9 cm (zone 2 — 1 cm from the double notch, zone 3 — 1 cm at the top) · front 1.3 cm (zone 2 — 0.6 cm from the single notch, zone 3 — 0.6 cm) — shrink the cap top with steam Full pocket assembly: flap (piece 9, 2 pcs shell + 2 lining) + welt (piece 11, 2 pcs shell, 17×4 cm — 1 cm wide finished, attached by the lower edge of the opening under the flap) + 15 cm opening frame marked on the front + upper and lower pocket bags (piece 10, 2 pcs each from lining, 4 layers) Back neck facing (piece 12): 1 pc on the back center fold, the outer edge follows the neckline — finishes the back neckline under the collar (reinstated from v2) Two-seam sleeve (pieces 4–5): classic roll-line split — the upper part (piece 4) carries the cap crown, the under part (piece 5) the side strips joined along the roll lines (grainline on the fold); its upper edge is the underarm section of the cap and also sets into the armhole; assembled rim 50.1 cm = cap 50.1 cm (difference 0 cm); the seams enter the cap at the underarm: front seam 5.5 cm of arc, elbow seam 6.5 cm; front seam curved 0.7 cm toward the front, front-seam edges 1:1 (52.3 = 52.3 cm); elbow seam with a 2 cm elbow dart on the upper part, the hem at the elbow seam 2 cm lower (skew compensating the dart); a 10 cm vent with a 4 cm overlap at the bottom of the elbow seam; elbow edges after stitching the dart: upper 43.1 cm / lower 43.1 cm (difference 0 cm — shrink with steam) Print at 100%! Check the 10 cm gauge line Seam matching (engine calculation) — check with a tape measure on fabric before stitching: Cap/armhole: cap 50.1 cm ↔ armhole 46.9 cm · ease 3.2 cm (ratio 1.069; set-in sleeve, steam-shrunk cap) — OK Sleeve length, absolute range by height: 59 cm · range 57…61 cm · range 57–61 cm for height 170 cm (typical sleeve length 59 cm); the entered measurement is not overridden — the wider range catches gross errors — OK Shoulder seam (back/front): 13.5 cm ↔ 12.6 cm · Δ 0.8 cm (range 0.7…1) · back ease 0.7–1.0 cm — the dart is converted to ease (steam shrinking), garment with shoulder pads — OK Side seam (back/front): 43.1 cm ↔ 43 cm · Δ 0.1 cm (range -1…1) · equal within ±1 cm — OK Side-panel seam, upper armhole↔BP (front/panel): 22 cm ↔ 22 cm · Δ 0 cm (range -0.3…0.3) · equal — rotation around the bust point preserves the edge length — OK Side-panel seam, lower BP↔hem (front/panel): 42 cm ↔ 42 cm · Δ 0 cm (range -0.3…0.3) · equal — shared seam curve by construction — OK shawl collar (half piece) / neckline to the gorge: 10 cm ↔ 11 cm · Δ -1 cm (range -1.5…-0.3) · Δ = setting line − neckline ≈ -1 cm: the setting line is SHORTER than the neckline (back + front to the gorge) — stretch when pressing (classic check); aCm is the actual curve of the piece outline — OK shawl collar — FULL setting line (gorge to gorge), absolute range: 20 cm · range 16…22.4 cm · absolute range 16–22.4 cm (from neck width BNW=6.8 cm); the actual gorge-to-gorge outline through the back neckline = 2 × the half-piece setting curve — check against the finished garment/toile — OK half back neckline (actual curve), absolute range: 8 cm · range 5.8…8.8 cm · range 5.8–8.8 cm from neck width BNW=6.8 cm (classic: BNW = neck/3 + 0.5 ≈ bust/20 + 2); the back-neck curve follows the draft outline — OK Front edge+lapel / front facing (outer edge): 89.2 cm ↔ 89.2 cm · Δ 0 cm (range -0.2…0.2) · facing outer edge = front edge, lapel and neckline edge of the front — OK Half waist girth (after darts): 43.3 cm ↔ 42.3 cm · Δ 1 cm (range -0.4…1.2) · target W/2 + 3.3 cm ease; up to +1 cm over is a waist-ease allowance (shrinks out when pressing) — OK Half hip girth: 53.5 cm ↔ 53.5 cm · Δ 0 cm (range -0.5…0.5) · equal to H/2 + 1.5 cm ease — hip-width check — OK
🧥

Coat / trench

BWHHmShB1B2B3B4W1W2W3W4H1H2H3H4Hm1Hm2Hm3Hm4 10 cm // надсечки по сторонам талиевой вытачки (при рельефах/кокетке вытачка переведена — не ставим) // v14.47: надсечка верха шлицы + подпись GRAINLINE // плечевой шов — к высшей точке оката // совмещение бокового шва по талии (спинка — двойная) W // контроль линии бёдер H W // середина спинки: талия H // середина спинки: бёдра // v14.11: конец потайной молнии среднего шва fold taper 1,0 cm 1 · COAT BACK — 1 PC (FOLD) 1 piece · fold shoulder 13.5 cm armhole 27.7 side 82.9 hem 24.3 · SA 3 center seam 110 neckline 7.8 · SA 0.7 lengthen or shorten // надсечки по сторонам талиевой вытачки GRAINLINE // плечевой шов — к высшей точке оката // совмещение бокового шва по талии (полочка — одинарная) W // контроль линии бёдер H // v14.47: метка верха боковой шлицы (без бочка — на полочке) W // средний перед: талия H // средний перед: бёдра taper 1,0 cm 2 · COAT FRONT — 2 PCS 2 pieces shoulder 12.6 cm armhole 21 side 82.9 hem 29.2 · SA 3 center 107.2 neckline 10.7 · SA 0.7 lengthen or shorten GRAINLINE ease: back 1.9 cm (zones 2–3) ease: front 1.3 cm (zones 2–3) to the shoulder seam 3 · SLEEVE — 2 PCS 2 pieces elbow sleeve seam 45.2 hem 20 · SA 3 sleeve seam 45.2 cap 52 lengthen or shorten stretch the back neckline 0.3–0.5 cm (pressing) shrink the back armhole 0.5–1 cm (pressing) shrink the elbow edge (pressing) side 82.9 cm side 82.9 cm armhole 48.7 cm cap 52 cm Basic pattern v3 · Coat · seam allowances included B 96 · W 78 · H 104 cm · semi-fitted · classic patternmaking Legend: Solid line — cutting outline (piece edge incl. seam allowance) Dashed line — stitching (seam) line; allowances: seams 1 cm · neckline 0.7 cm · hem 3 cm Drafted to measurements: B 96 · W 78 · H 104 cm (≈ size 48) Finished: bust 105 cm (B + 9 cm ease) · waist 89 cm · hips 107 cm · length 110 cm Red arrow — grainline · circles — notches (double — back) · wedges — darts Blue edge labels — reference lengths in cm (shoulder, side seam, armhole, cap, inseam) for checking the pattern before cutting Construction lines: B — bust · W — waist · H — hips · Hm — hem · Sh — shoulder; points B1…Hm4 are checkpoints Final dimensions: back width 24.8 cm · front width 27.7 cm · armhole depth 27.5 cm Ease allowances (to half girth): bust +4.5 · waist +4.5 · hips +1.5 cm Пальтовая система: углубленная пройма (+2 cm) · расширенная пройма (+1 cm) · подъём баланса спинки 5 мм · заход 9 cm · прибавка Пг 4.5 cm · длина ниже колена · подкладка и подборт — отдельными деталями Set the sleeve in by the marks: cap top to the shoulder seam, single notch to the front armhole, double notch to the back armhole; cap ease 3.3 cm (107% of the armhole length); below the notches (zone 1) set in without ease Cap ease zones: back 1.9 cm (zone 2 — 1 cm from the double notch, zone 3 — 1 cm at the top) · front 1.3 cm (zone 2 — 0.7 cm from the single notch, zone 3 — 0.7 cm) — shrink the cap top with steam Print at 100%! Check the 10 cm gauge line Seam matching (engine calculation) — check with a tape measure on fabric before stitching: Cap/armhole: cap 52 cm ↔ armhole 48.7 cm · ease 3.3 cm (ratio 1.067; set-in sleeve, steam-shrunk cap) — OK Sleeve length, absolute range by height: 59 cm · range 57…61 cm · range 57–61 cm for height 170 cm (typical sleeve length 59 cm); the entered measurement is not overridden — the wider range catches gross errors — OK Shoulder seam (back/front): 13.5 cm ↔ 12.6 cm · Δ 0.8 cm (range 0.7…1) · back ease 0.7–1.0 cm — the dart is converted to ease (steam shrinking), garment with shoulder pads — OK Side seam (back/front): 82.9 cm ↔ 82.9 cm · Δ 0 cm (range -1.5…1.5) · equal within ±1.5 cm (coat, loose silhouette) — OK Half waist girth (after darts): 44.5 cm ↔ 43.5 cm · Δ 1 cm (range -0.4…1.2) · target W/2 + 4.5 cm ease; up to +1 cm over is a waist-ease allowance (shrinks out when pressing) — OK Half hip girth: 53.5 cm ↔ 53.5 cm · Δ 0 cm (range -0.5…0.5) · equal to H/2 + 1.5 cm ease — hip-width check — OK
🦺

Vest / waistcoat

BWHHmShB1B2B3B4W1W2W3W4H1H2H3H4Hm1Hm2Hm3Hm4 10 cm // надсечки по сторонам талиевой вытачки (при рельефах/кокетке вытачка переведена — не ставим) // v14.47: надсечка верха шлицы + подпись GRAINLINE // плечевой шов — к высшей точке оката // совмещение бокового шва по талии (спинка — двойная) W // контроль линии бёдер H W // середина спинки: талия H // середина спинки: бёдра // v14.11: конец потайной молнии среднего шва taper 1,0 cm 1 · JACKET BACK — 2 PCS (CENTER SEAM, VENT) 2 pcs · center seam with a vent shoulder 13.5 cm armhole 26 side 43.1 hem 24.3 · SA 3 center seam 69 neckline 8.3 · SA 0.7 lengthen or shorten // шаг 7: уголки — пройма↔плечо и пройма↔шов бочка // надсечки по сторонам талиевой вытачки GRAINLINE // пройма полочки — к окату (одинарная) // верх шва бочка — совмещение с бочком // плечевой шов — к высшей точке оката W // шов бочка: талия H // шов бочка: бёдра W // средний перед: талия H // средний перед: бёдра 2 · JACKET FRONT — 2 PCS 2 BUTTONS · Ø15–20 mm lapel roll linegorge point · 3.5 cm notchLapel · width 7 cm (style)collar end 6 cm · 1 cm offset waist dart and pocket here shoulder 12.6 cm FLAP POCKET (15 cm frame) the pocket is sewn into the waist dart neckline 3 · SA 0.7 armhole 9.5 hem 24 · SA 3 front edge 34.5 lengthen or shorten // шаг 7: уголки на стыках проймы бочка GRAINLINE // пройма бочка — к окату (одинарная) // верх шва — совмещение с полочкой BP // P1-3: метка BP на дуге бочка, напротив BP полочки W // шов: талия H // шов: бёдра W // боковой шов: талия H // боковой шов: бёдра // v14.47: метка верха боковой шлицы на бочке taper 1,0 cm 3 · JACKET SIDE PANEL — 2 PCS bust dart transferred into the seam · dart end rounded, 2.2 cm before the bust point · edge = front edge side 43 hem 8.6 · SA 3 side 45.6 armhole 11.4 GRAINLINE GRAINLINE ease: back 1.9 cm (zones 2–3) ease: front 1.3 cm (zones 2–3) elbow dart 2 cm vent 10 cm · 4 cm extension to the shoulder seam curve toward the armhole underarm point 4 · SLEEVE UPPER PART — 2 PCS 5 · SLEEVE UNDER PART — 2 PCS elbow lengthen or shorten notch fold line 1 cm offset 6 · SHAWL COLLAR 1 PC (FOLD) 7 · UNDER COLLAR 1 PC (FOLD) GRAINLINE top buttonhole (point L) lapel roll 8 · FRONT FACING — 2 PCS fully fused · edge 3 cm past the roll line 4 cm to hem · 3 cm to shoulder to the front (piece 2) along the front edge 9 · POCKET FLAP — 2 PCS GRAINLINE finished 15 × 4.5 cm · with pocket bags (#10) 10 · UPPER POCKET BAG — 2 PCS GRAINLINE LOWER POCKET BAG — 2 PCS GRAINLINE from lining fabric · with flap (piece 9) 11 · WELT — 2 PCS 17 × 4 cm · 1 cm finished into the pocket frame (piece 2) 12 · BACK NECK FACING 1 PC (FOLD) Lining: back · 1.5 cm pleat at the neckline (fold downward) Lining: front (without front facing) Lining: side panel · ×2 Lining: sleeve · ×2 Lining: sleeve — under part · ×2 VENT 20 cm stretch the back neckline 0.3–0.5 cm (pressing) shrink the back armhole 0.5–1 cm (pressing) shrink the elbow edge (pressing) stretch the front edge and gorge (pressing) side 43.1 cm side 43 cm armhole 46.9 cm cap 50.1 cm = crown 38 + hem 12.1 front seam 52.3 cm elbow seam 43.1 cm 52.3 43.1 top 12.1 cm — into the armhole Basic pattern v3 · Jacket · seam allowances included B 96 · W 78 · H 104 cm · semi-fitted · classic patternmaking Legend: Solid line — cutting outline (piece edge incl. seam allowance) Dashed line — stitching (seam) line; allowances: seams 1 cm · neckline 0.7 cm · hem 3 cm Drafted to measurements: B 96 · W 78 · H 104 cm (≈ size 48) Finished: bust 102.5 cm (B + 6.5 cm ease) · waist 86.6 cm · hips 107 cm · length 69 cm Red arrow — grainline · circles — notches (double — back) · wedges — darts Blue edge labels — reference lengths in cm (shoulder, side seam, armhole, cap, inseam) for checking the pattern before cutting Construction lines: B — bust · W — waist · H — hips · Hm — hem · Sh — shoulder; points B1…Hm4 are checkpoints Final dimensions: back width 24.2 cm · front width 27 cm · armhole depth 26.5 cm Ease allowances (to half girth): bust +3.3 · waist +3.3 · hips +1.5 cm Jacket (pieces 1–5): extended 9 cm below the hipline · single-breasted 3,5 cm overlap · tailored V-neckline with lapel · 20 cm vent in the back center seam · two-seam sleeve · front with side panel (pieces 2–3) Shawl collar (piece 6): stand 3 cm + fall 4,5 cm · setting line = neckline to the gorge − 1 cm (stretch when pressing) · notch at the shoulder seam · lapel: gorge 3,5 cm, width 7 cm, collar point 6 cm — classic patternmaking · under collar (piece 7): minus 0,4 cm at the fall and 0,2 cm at the point (roll allowance), one piece on the back center fold The 9 cm bust dart is transferred into the side-panel seam (pieces 2–3, classic rotation around the bust point): the seam edges from the armhole through the bust point to the hem are equal by construction — stitch without ease; after the panel seam is stitched, the armhole shortens to 46.9 cm — the sleeve cap is drafted to it; the waist dart and flap pocket stay on the front, the pocket is sewn into the dart · jacket construction (Burda reference) Front facing, fusible along the front edge/lapel, and the lining are separate pieces from the same patterns (see the materials specification); the lapel and collar point follow the classic tailored configuration Lining — cut from the shell pieces without front facings; 1,5 cm pleat at the back center; hem and sleeves 2 cm shorter than the shell Neckline: notches at the back center and shoulder points — match them with the collar's corresponding notches when setting in Set the sleeve in by the marks: cap top to the shoulder seam, single notch to the front armhole, double notch to the back armhole; cap ease 3.2 cm (107% of the armhole length); below the notches (zone 1) set in without ease Cap ease zones: back 1.9 cm (zone 2 — 1 cm from the double notch, zone 3 — 1 cm at the top) · front 1.3 cm (zone 2 — 0.6 cm from the single notch, zone 3 — 0.6 cm) — shrink the cap top with steam Full pocket assembly: flap (piece 9, 2 pcs shell + 2 lining) + welt (piece 11, 2 pcs shell, 17×4 cm — 1 cm wide finished, attached by the lower edge of the opening under the flap) + 15 cm opening frame marked on the front + upper and lower pocket bags (piece 10, 2 pcs each from lining, 4 layers) Back neck facing (piece 12): 1 pc on the back center fold, the outer edge follows the neckline — finishes the back neckline under the collar (reinstated from v2) Two-seam sleeve (pieces 4–5): classic roll-line split — the upper part (piece 4) carries the cap crown, the under part (piece 5) the side strips joined along the roll lines (grainline on the fold); its upper edge is the underarm section of the cap and also sets into the armhole; assembled rim 50.1 cm = cap 50.1 cm (difference 0 cm); the seams enter the cap at the underarm: front seam 5.5 cm of arc, elbow seam 6.5 cm; front seam curved 0.7 cm toward the front, front-seam edges 1:1 (52.3 = 52.3 cm); elbow seam with a 2 cm elbow dart on the upper part, the hem at the elbow seam 2 cm lower (skew compensating the dart); a 10 cm vent with a 4 cm overlap at the bottom of the elbow seam; elbow edges after stitching the dart: upper 43.1 cm / lower 43.1 cm (difference 0 cm — shrink with steam) Print at 100%! Check the 10 cm gauge line Seam matching (engine calculation) — check with a tape measure on fabric before stitching: Cap/armhole: cap 50.1 cm ↔ armhole 46.9 cm · ease 3.2 cm (ratio 1.069; set-in sleeve, steam-shrunk cap) — OK Sleeve length, absolute range by height: 59 cm · range 57…61 cm · range 57–61 cm for height 170 cm (typical sleeve length 59 cm); the entered measurement is not overridden — the wider range catches gross errors — OK Shoulder seam (back/front): 13.5 cm ↔ 12.6 cm · Δ 0.8 cm (range 0.7…1) · back ease 0.7–1.0 cm — the dart is converted to ease (steam shrinking), garment with shoulder pads — OK Side seam (back/front): 43.1 cm ↔ 43 cm · Δ 0.1 cm (range -1…1) · equal within ±1 cm — OK Side-panel seam, upper armhole↔BP (front/panel): 22 cm ↔ 22 cm · Δ 0 cm (range -0.3…0.3) · equal — rotation around the bust point preserves the edge length — OK Side-panel seam, lower BP↔hem (front/panel): 42 cm ↔ 42 cm · Δ 0 cm (range -0.3…0.3) · equal — shared seam curve by construction — OK shawl collar (half piece) / neckline to the gorge: 10 cm ↔ 11 cm · Δ -1 cm (range -1.5…-0.3) · Δ = setting line − neckline ≈ -1 cm: the setting line is SHORTER than the neckline (back + front to the gorge) — stretch when pressing (classic check); aCm is the actual curve of the piece outline — OK shawl collar — FULL setting line (gorge to gorge), absolute range: 20 cm · range 16…22.4 cm · absolute range 16–22.4 cm (from neck width BNW=6.8 cm); the actual gorge-to-gorge outline through the back neckline = 2 × the half-piece setting curve — check against the finished garment/toile — OK half back neckline (actual curve), absolute range: 8 cm · range 5.8…8.8 cm · range 5.8–8.8 cm from neck width BNW=6.8 cm (classic: BNW = neck/3 + 0.5 ≈ bust/20 + 2); the back-neck curve follows the draft outline — OK Front edge+lapel / front facing (outer edge): 89.2 cm ↔ 89.2 cm · Δ 0 cm (range -0.2…0.2) · facing outer edge = front edge, lapel and neckline edge of the front — OK Half waist girth (after darts): 43.3 cm ↔ 42.3 cm · Δ 1 cm (range -0.4…1.2) · target W/2 + 3.3 cm ease; up to +1 cm over is a waist-ease allowance (shrinks out when pressing) — OK Half hip girth: 53.5 cm ↔ 53.5 cm · Δ 0 cm (range -0.5…0.5) · equal to H/2 + 1.5 cm ease — hip-width check — OK
🎽

Top / camisole

BWHHmShB1B2B3B4W1W2W3W4H1H2H3H4Hm1Hm2Hm3Hm4 10 cm // надсечки по сторонам талиевой вытачки (при рельефах/кокетке вытачка переведена — не ставим) // v14.47: надсечка верха шлицы + подпись GRAINLINE // плечевой шов — к высшей точке оката // совмещение бокового шва по талии (спинка — двойная) W // контроль линии бёдер H W // середина спинки: талия H // середина спинки: бёдра notch — zipper end (hipline) // v14.11: конец потайной молнии среднего шва taper 1,0 cm 1 · DRESS BACK — 2 PCS (CENTER SEAM, ZIPPER) 2 pcs · center seam with an invisible zipper up to the hipline shoulder 13.3 cm armhole 24.5 side 75.2 hem 24.4 · SA 3 center seam 100 neckline 7.6 · SA 0.7 lengthen or shorten // надсечки по сторонам талиевой вытачки GRAINLINE // плечевой шов — к высшей точке оката // совмещение бокового шва по талии (полочка — одинарная) W // контроль линии бёдер H // v14.47: метка верха боковой шлицы (без бочка — на полочке) W // средний перед: талия H // средний перед: бёдра taper 1,0 cm 2 · DRESS FRONT — 1 PC (FOLD) 1 piece · fold at center front shoulder 12.6 cm armhole 18.6 side 75.2 hem 29.1 · SA 3 center 97.2 neckline 10.7 · SA 0.7 lengthen or shorten GRAINLINE ease: back 1.4 cm (zones 2–3) ease: front 0.9 cm (zones 2–3) to the shoulder seam 3 · SLEEVE — 2 PCS 2 pieces elbow sleeve seam 47.9 hem 20 · SA 3 sleeve seam 47.9 cap 45.4 lengthen or shorten stretch the back neckline 0.3–0.5 cm (pressing) shrink the back armhole 0.5–1 cm (pressing) shrink the elbow edge (pressing) side 75.2 cm side 75.2 cm armhole 43.1 cm cap 45.4 cm Basic pattern v3 · seam allowances included B 96 · W 78 · H 104 cm · semi-fitted · classic patternmaking Legend: Solid line — cutting outline (piece edge incl. seam allowance) Dashed line — stitching (seam) line; allowances: seams 1 cm · neckline 0.7 cm · hem 3 cm Drafted to measurements: B 96 · W 78 · H 104 cm (≈ size 48) Finished: bust 101 cm (B + 5 cm ease) · waist 82 cm · hips 107 cm · length 100 cm Red arrow — grainline · circles — notches (double — back) · wedges — darts Blue edge labels — reference lengths in cm (shoulder, side seam, armhole, cap, inseam) for checking the pattern before cutting Construction lines: B — bust · W — waist · H — hips · Hm — hem · Sh — shoulder; points B1…Hm4 are checkpoints Final dimensions: back width 23.9 cm · front width 26.6 cm · armhole depth 25.5 cm Ease allowances (to half girth): bust +2.5 · waist +1 · hips +1.5 cm Sheath dress (pieces 1–2): knee length · darts extended to the hipline · closure — invisible zipper in the back center seam up to the hipline · zipper end — notch on the center edge at the hipline Set the sleeve in by the marks: cap top to the shoulder seam, single notch to the front armhole, double notch to the back armhole; cap ease 2.3 cm (105% of the armhole length); below the notches (zone 1) set in without ease Cap ease zones: back 1.4 cm (zone 2 — 0.7 cm from the double notch, zone 3 — 0.7 cm at the top) · front 0.9 cm (zone 2 — 0.4 cm from the single notch, zone 3 — 0.4 cm) — shrink the cap top with steam Print at 100%! Check the 10 cm gauge line Seam matching (engine calculation) — check with a tape measure on fabric before stitching: Cap/armhole: cap 45.4 cm ↔ armhole 43.1 cm · ease 2.3 cm (ratio 1.052; set-in sleeve, steam-shrunk cap) — OK Sleeve length, absolute range by height: 59 cm · range 57…61 cm · range 57–61 cm for height 170 cm (typical sleeve length 59 cm); the entered measurement is not overridden — the wider range catches gross errors — OK Shoulder seam (back/front): 13.3 cm ↔ 12.6 cm · Δ 0.6 cm (range 0.3…1) · back ease 0.3–1.0 cm after stitching the shoulder dart — OK Side seam (back/front): 75.2 cm ↔ 75.2 cm · Δ 0 cm (range -1…1) · equal within ±1 cm — OK Half waist girth (after darts): 41 cm ↔ 40 cm · Δ 1 cm (range -0.4…1.2) · target W/2 + 1 cm ease; up to +1 cm over is a waist-ease allowance (shrinks out when pressing) — OK Half hip girth: 53.5 cm ↔ 53.5 cm · Δ 0 cm (range -0.5…0.5) · equal to H/2 + 1.5 cm ease — hip-width check — OK
👖

Straight trousers

10 cm GRAINLINE notch — zipper end (fly) 1 · TROUSER FRONT — 2 PCS 2 pcs side 105.2 hem 22 · SA 3 inseam 78.2 center 28.5 waist 37.2 lengthen or shorten GRAINLINE 2 · TROUSER BACK — 2 PCS 2 pcs side 105.4 hem 22 · SA 3 inseam 77.9 center seam 33.6 waist 47.1 lengthen or shorten overlap at center frontback center 3 · WAISTBAND — 1 PC 3.5 cm finished · fold line in the middle · grainline lengthwise · fuse with interfacing all over WHKHm inseam 78.2 cm side 105.1 cm Basic pattern v3 · Trousers · seam allowances included B 96 · W 78 · H 104 cm · semi-fitted · classic patternmaking Legend: Solid line — cutting outline (piece edge incl. seam allowance) Dashed line — stitching (seam) line; allowances: seams 1 cm · neckline 0.7 cm · hem 3 cm Drafted to measurements: B 96 · W 78 · H 104 cm (≈ size 48) Red arrow — grainline · circles — notches (double — back) · wedges — darts Blue edge labels — reference lengths in cm (shoulder, side seam, armhole, cap, inseam) for checking the pattern before cutting Ease allowances (to half girth): bust +2.5 · waist +1 · hips +1.5 cm Trousers (pieces 1–2): rise H/4+1 · hem width 22 cm · darts 2.5/3.5 cm · closure in the front center seam Notches on the trouser legs — hipline (H) and knee line (K) on the side and inseam edges: align front and back by them when stitching; the back has double notches · zipper end (fly) — notch on the front center edge at the hipline Waistband (piece 3): straight, 3,5 cm finished, fold at the center line · length = garment waist edge + 4 cm overlap · fully fused · notches on the attaching edge: overlap at the closure and center back Print at 100%! Check the 10 cm gauge line Seam matching (engine calculation) — check with a tape measure on fabric before stitching: Trouser inseam (back/front): 77.9 cm ↔ 78.2 cm · Δ -0.3 cm (range -2…1) · Δ -2…+1 cm; the back inseam top is lowered (classic), the remainder is stretched out when pressing — OK Trouser side edge (back/front): 105.2 cm ↔ 105.1 cm · Δ 0.2 cm (range -1…1) · equal within ±1 cm — OK Trouser half waist girth: 40 cm ↔ 40 cm · Δ 0 cm (range -0.5…0.5) · equal to W/2 + 1 cm (trouser waist ease) — OK Trouser half hip girth: 53 cm ↔ 53 cm · Δ 0 cm (range -0.5…0.5) · equal to H/2 + 1 cm plus belly allowance — hip-width check — OK
👖

Jeans

10 cm GRAINLINE notch — zipper end (fly) 1 · TROUSER FRONT — 2 PCS 2 pcs side 105.2 hem 22 · SA 3 inseam 78.2 center 28.5 waist 37.2 lengthen or shorten GRAINLINE 2 · TROUSER BACK — 2 PCS 2 pcs side 105.4 hem 22 · SA 3 inseam 77.9 center seam 33.6 waist 47.1 lengthen or shorten overlap at center frontback center 3 · WAISTBAND — 1 PC 3.5 cm finished · fold line in the middle · grainline lengthwise · fuse with interfacing all over WHKHm inseam 78.2 cm side 105.1 cm Basic pattern v3 · Trousers · seam allowances included B 96 · W 78 · H 104 cm · semi-fitted · classic patternmaking Legend: Solid line — cutting outline (piece edge incl. seam allowance) Dashed line — stitching (seam) line; allowances: seams 1 cm · neckline 0.7 cm · hem 3 cm Drafted to measurements: B 96 · W 78 · H 104 cm (≈ size 48) Red arrow — grainline · circles — notches (double — back) · wedges — darts Blue edge labels — reference lengths in cm (shoulder, side seam, armhole, cap, inseam) for checking the pattern before cutting Ease allowances (to half girth): bust +2.5 · waist +1 · hips +1.5 cm Trousers (pieces 1–2): rise H/4+1 · hem width 22 cm · darts 2.5/3.5 cm · closure in the front center seam Notches on the trouser legs — hipline (H) and knee line (K) on the side and inseam edges: align front and back by them when stitching; the back has double notches · zipper end (fly) — notch on the front center edge at the hipline Waistband (piece 3): straight, 3,5 cm finished, fold at the center line · length = garment waist edge + 4 cm overlap · fully fused · notches on the attaching edge: overlap at the closure and center back Print at 100%! Check the 10 cm gauge line Seam matching (engine calculation) — check with a tape measure on fabric before stitching: Trouser inseam (back/front): 77.9 cm ↔ 78.2 cm · Δ -0.3 cm (range -2…1) · Δ -2…+1 cm; the back inseam top is lowered (classic), the remainder is stretched out when pressing — OK Trouser side edge (back/front): 105.2 cm ↔ 105.1 cm · Δ 0.2 cm (range -1…1) · equal within ±1 cm — OK Trouser half waist girth: 40 cm ↔ 40 cm · Δ 0 cm (range -0.5…0.5) · equal to W/2 + 1 cm (trouser waist ease) — OK Trouser half hip girth: 53 cm ↔ 53 cm · Δ 0 cm (range -0.5…0.5) · equal to H/2 + 1 cm plus belly allowance — hip-width check — OK
👖

Wide-leg / palazzo trousers

10 cm GRAINLINE notch — zipper end (fly) 1 · TROUSER FRONT — 2 PCS 2 pcs side 105.2 hem 22 · SA 3 inseam 78.2 center 28.5 waist 37.2 lengthen or shorten GRAINLINE 2 · TROUSER BACK — 2 PCS 2 pcs side 105.4 hem 22 · SA 3 inseam 77.9 center seam 33.6 waist 47.1 lengthen or shorten overlap at center frontback center 3 · WAISTBAND — 1 PC 3.5 cm finished · fold line in the middle · grainline lengthwise · fuse with interfacing all over WHKHm inseam 78.2 cm side 105.1 cm Basic pattern v3 · Trousers · seam allowances included B 96 · W 78 · H 104 cm · semi-fitted · classic patternmaking Legend: Solid line — cutting outline (piece edge incl. seam allowance) Dashed line — stitching (seam) line; allowances: seams 1 cm · neckline 0.7 cm · hem 3 cm Drafted to measurements: B 96 · W 78 · H 104 cm (≈ size 48) Red arrow — grainline · circles — notches (double — back) · wedges — darts Blue edge labels — reference lengths in cm (shoulder, side seam, armhole, cap, inseam) for checking the pattern before cutting Ease allowances (to half girth): bust +2.5 · waist +1 · hips +1.5 cm Trousers (pieces 1–2): rise H/4+1 · hem width 22 cm · darts 2.5/3.5 cm · closure in the front center seam Notches on the trouser legs — hipline (H) and knee line (K) on the side and inseam edges: align front and back by them when stitching; the back has double notches · zipper end (fly) — notch on the front center edge at the hipline Waistband (piece 3): straight, 3,5 cm finished, fold at the center line · length = garment waist edge + 4 cm overlap · fully fused · notches on the attaching edge: overlap at the closure and center back Print at 100%! Check the 10 cm gauge line Seam matching (engine calculation) — check with a tape measure on fabric before stitching: Trouser inseam (back/front): 77.9 cm ↔ 78.2 cm · Δ -0.3 cm (range -2…1) · Δ -2…+1 cm; the back inseam top is lowered (classic), the remainder is stretched out when pressing — OK Trouser side edge (back/front): 105.2 cm ↔ 105.1 cm · Δ 0.2 cm (range -1…1) · equal within ±1 cm — OK Trouser half waist girth: 40 cm ↔ 40 cm · Δ 0 cm (range -0.5…0.5) · equal to W/2 + 1 cm (trouser waist ease) — OK Trouser half hip girth: 53 cm ↔ 53 cm · Δ 0 cm (range -0.5…0.5) · equal to H/2 + 1 cm plus belly allowance — hip-width check — OK
🩳

Shorts

10 cm GRAINLINE notch — zipper end (fly) 1 · TROUSER FRONT — 2 PCS 2 pcs side 105.2 hem 22 · SA 3 inseam 78.2 center 28.5 waist 37.2 lengthen or shorten GRAINLINE 2 · TROUSER BACK — 2 PCS 2 pcs side 105.4 hem 22 · SA 3 inseam 77.9 center seam 33.6 waist 47.1 lengthen or shorten overlap at center frontback center 3 · WAISTBAND — 1 PC 3.5 cm finished · fold line in the middle · grainline lengthwise · fuse with interfacing all over WHKHm inseam 78.2 cm side 105.1 cm Basic pattern v3 · Trousers · seam allowances included B 96 · W 78 · H 104 cm · semi-fitted · classic patternmaking Legend: Solid line — cutting outline (piece edge incl. seam allowance) Dashed line — stitching (seam) line; allowances: seams 1 cm · neckline 0.7 cm · hem 3 cm Drafted to measurements: B 96 · W 78 · H 104 cm (≈ size 48) Red arrow — grainline · circles — notches (double — back) · wedges — darts Blue edge labels — reference lengths in cm (shoulder, side seam, armhole, cap, inseam) for checking the pattern before cutting Ease allowances (to half girth): bust +2.5 · waist +1 · hips +1.5 cm Trousers (pieces 1–2): rise H/4+1 · hem width 22 cm · darts 2.5/3.5 cm · closure in the front center seam Notches on the trouser legs — hipline (H) and knee line (K) on the side and inseam edges: align front and back by them when stitching; the back has double notches · zipper end (fly) — notch on the front center edge at the hipline Waistband (piece 3): straight, 3,5 cm finished, fold at the center line · length = garment waist edge + 4 cm overlap · fully fused · notches on the attaching edge: overlap at the closure and center back Print at 100%! Check the 10 cm gauge line Seam matching (engine calculation) — check with a tape measure on fabric before stitching: Trouser inseam (back/front): 77.9 cm ↔ 78.2 cm · Δ -0.3 cm (range -2…1) · Δ -2…+1 cm; the back inseam top is lowered (classic), the remainder is stretched out when pressing — OK Trouser side edge (back/front): 105.2 cm ↔ 105.1 cm · Δ 0.2 cm (range -1…1) · equal within ±1 cm — OK Trouser half waist girth: 40 cm ↔ 40 cm · Δ 0 cm (range -0.5…0.5) · equal to W/2 + 1 cm (trouser waist ease) — OK Trouser half hip girth: 53 cm ↔ 53 cm · Δ 0 cm (range -0.5…0.5) · equal to H/2 + 1 cm plus belly allowance — hip-width check — OK
👗

Pencil skirt

10 cm GRAINLINE // надсечки по сторонам талиевой вытачки спинки zipper end 1 · SKIRT BACK — 2 PCS 2 pcs · with center seam side 60.7 hem 24.5 · SA 3 center seam 60 waist 48.9 lengthen or shorten GRAINLINE // надсечки по сторонам талиевой вытачки полочки zipper end 2 · SKIRT FRONT — 1 PC (FOLD) 1 pc · fold side 60.7 hem 26.5 · SA 3 center 60 waist 46.7 lengthen or shorten WHHm 4 cm overlapfront center 3 · WAISTBAND — 1 PC 3.5 cm finished · fold line in the middle · grainline lengthwise · fuse with interfacing all over Basic pattern v3 · Straight skirt · seam allowances included B 96 · W 78 · H 104 cm · semi-fitted · classic patternmaking Legend: Solid line — cutting outline (piece edge incl. seam allowance) Dashed line — stitching (seam) line; allowances: seams 1 cm · neckline 0.7 cm · hem 3 cm Drafted to measurements: B 96 · W 78 · H 104 cm (≈ size 48) Red arrow — grainline · circles — notches (double — back) · wedges — darts Blue edge labels — reference lengths in cm (shoulder, side seam, armhole, cap, inseam) for checking the pattern before cutting Ease allowances (to half girth): bust +2.5 · waist +1 · hips +1.5 cm Straight skirt (pieces 1–2): length 60 cm · ease waist +1 · hips +2 cm · closure — invisible zipper in the left side seam · zipper end — notches on the side edges at the hipline Waistband (piece 3): straight, 3,5 cm finished, fold at the center line · length = garment waist edge + 4 cm overlap · fully fused · notches on the attaching edge: overlap at the closure and center front Print at 100%! Check the 10 cm gauge line Seam matching (engine calculation) — check with a tape measure on fabric before stitching: Skirt half waist girth (after darts): 40 cm ↔ 40 cm · Δ 0 cm (range -0.4…1) · target W/2 + 1 cm ease; excess occurs with a very large hip/waist difference, when standard tapers cannot absorb it (see the second-dart note) — OK
👗

Full / circle skirt

10 cm zipper end GRAINLINE (along radius) 1 · HALF-CIRCLE SKIRT (BACK) — 1 PC waist R 24.8 cm · length 60 cm side 60 waist 39 side 60 hem 133.2 · SA 3 lengthen or shorten zipper end GRAINLINE (along radius) 2 · HALF-CIRCLE SKIRT (FRONT) — 1 PC 2 pieces in the garment · seams on grain side 60 waist 39 side 60 hem 133.2 · SA 3 lengthen or shorten 4 cm overlapfront center 3 · WAISTBAND — 1 PC 3.5 cm finished · fold line in the middle · grainline lengthwise · fuse with interfacing all over Basic pattern v3 · Half-circle skirt · seam allowances included B 96 · W 78 · H 104 cm · semi-fitted · classic patternmaking Legend: Solid line — cutting outline (piece edge incl. seam allowance) Dashed line — stitching (seam) line; allowances: seams 1 cm · neckline 0.7 cm · hem 3 cm Drafted to measurements: B 96 · W 78 · H 104 cm (≈ size 48) Red arrow — grainline · circles — notches (double — back) · wedges — darts Blue edge labels — reference lengths in cm (shoulder, side seam, armhole, cap, inseam) for checking the pattern before cutting Ease allowances (to half girth): bust +2.5 · waist +1 · hips +1.5 cm Half-circle skirt (pieces 1–2): waist radius W/π = 24.8 cm · length 60 cm · cut as two quarter-rings (back and front) · allowances: waist 1 cm · hem 2 cm · zipper in the left seam · zipper end — notches on the seam edges 18 cm from the waist The bias edges of a half-circle skirt stretch: let the skirt hang for 2–3 days before hemming and level the hem with a plumb line Waistband (piece 3): straight, 3,5 cm finished, fold at the center line · length = garment waist edge + 4 cm overlap · fully fused · notches on the attaching edge: overlap at the closure and center front Print at 100%! Check the 10 cm gauge line
👗

A-line skirt

10 cm GRAINLINE // надсечки по сторонам талиевой вытачки спинки zipper end 1 · SKIRT BACK — 2 PCS 2 pcs · with center seam side 60.7 hem 24.5 · SA 3 center seam 60 waist 48.9 lengthen or shorten GRAINLINE // надсечки по сторонам талиевой вытачки полочки zipper end 2 · SKIRT FRONT — 1 PC (FOLD) 1 pc · fold side 60.7 hem 26.5 · SA 3 center 60 waist 46.7 lengthen or shorten WHHm 4 cm overlapfront center 3 · WAISTBAND — 1 PC 3.5 cm finished · fold line in the middle · grainline lengthwise · fuse with interfacing all over Basic pattern v3 · Straight skirt · seam allowances included B 96 · W 78 · H 104 cm · semi-fitted · classic patternmaking Legend: Solid line — cutting outline (piece edge incl. seam allowance) Dashed line — stitching (seam) line; allowances: seams 1 cm · neckline 0.7 cm · hem 3 cm Drafted to measurements: B 96 · W 78 · H 104 cm (≈ size 48) Red arrow — grainline · circles — notches (double — back) · wedges — darts Blue edge labels — reference lengths in cm (shoulder, side seam, armhole, cap, inseam) for checking the pattern before cutting Ease allowances (to half girth): bust +2.5 · waist +1 · hips +1.5 cm Straight skirt (pieces 1–2): length 60 cm · ease waist +1 · hips +2 cm · closure — invisible zipper in the left side seam · zipper end — notches on the side edges at the hipline Waistband (piece 3): straight, 3,5 cm finished, fold at the center line · length = garment waist edge + 4 cm overlap · fully fused · notches on the attaching edge: overlap at the closure and center front Print at 100%! Check the 10 cm gauge line Seam matching (engine calculation) — check with a tape measure on fabric before stitching: Skirt half waist girth (after darts): 40 cm ↔ 40 cm · Δ 0 cm (range -0.4…1) · target W/2 + 1 cm ease; excess occurs with a very large hip/waist difference, when standard tapers cannot absorb it (see the second-dart note) — OK
👗

Wrap skirt

10 cm GRAINLINE // надсечки по сторонам талиевой вытачки спинки 1 · SKIRT BACK — 2 PCS 2 pcs · with center seam side 60.7 hem 24.5 · SA 3 center seam 60 waist 48.9 lengthen or shorten WHHm GRAINLINE // надсечки по сторонам талиевой вытачки (запах) CENTER LINE (wrap edge) 2 · WRAP FRONT — 1 PC 12 cm wrap center 65.7 hem 56.5 · SA 3 side 60.6 waist 104.3 lengthen or shorten 3 · WAISTBAND — 1 PC 3.5 cm finished · fold line in the middle · grainline lengthwise · fuse with interfacing all over · wrap closure — button/snap on the waistband Basic pattern v3 · Wrap skirt · seam allowances included B 96 · W 78 · H 104 cm · semi-fitted · classic patternmaking Legend: Solid line — cutting outline (piece edge incl. seam allowance) Dashed line — stitching (seam) line; allowances: seams 1 cm · neckline 0.7 cm · hem 3 cm Drafted to measurements: B 96 · W 78 · H 104 cm (≈ size 48) Red arrow — grainline · circles — notches (double — back) · wedges — darts Blue edge labels — reference lengths in cm (shoulder, side seam, armhole, cap, inseam) for checking the pattern before cutting Ease allowances (to half girth): bust +2.5 · waist +1 · hips +1.5 cm Юбка с запахом (дет. 1–2): спинка как у straight · полочка цельная в разворот · запах 12 cm, край скошен · застёжка на поясе (пуговица/кнопка), молния не требуется Waistband (piece 3): straight, 3,5 cm finished, fold at the center line · length = garment waist edge + 4 cm; у запаха — по всей кромке талии с запахом 12 cm overlap · fully fused · notches on the attaching edge: overlap at the closure and center front Print at 100%! Check the 10 cm gauge line Seam matching (engine calculation) — check with a tape measure on fabric before stitching: Wrap-skirt half waist girth (after darts): 46 cm ↔ 46 cm · Δ 0 cm (range -0.4…1) · target W/2 + 1 cm ease + half of the 6 cm wrap; excess is acceptable — the wrap adjusts the fit (see the side-taper note) — OK
👔

Set: jacket + skirt + trousers

BWHHmShB1B2B3B4W1W2W3W4H1H2H3H4Hm1Hm2Hm3Hm4 10 cm Shoulder length 12.6 cm // надсечки по сторонам талиевой вытачки (сборка: стачать к вершине) GRAINLINE // плечевой шов — к высшей точке оката // совмещение бокового шва по талии (спинка — двойная) W // контроль линии бёдер H W // середина спинки: талия H // середина спинки: бёдра widen 0,4 cm 1 · BACK — 1 PC (FOLD) 1 piece · fold fold along the center shoulder 13.3 cm armhole 24.5 side 37.3 hem 25.4 · SA 3 center seam 62 neckline 7.6 · SA 0.7 lengthen or shorten // надсечки по сторонам талиевой вытачки GRAINLINE // плечевой шов — к высшей точке оката // совмещение бокового шва по талии (полочка — одинарная) W // контроль линии бёдер H W // середина переда: талия H // середина переда: бёдра taper 0,4 cm 2 · FRONT — 2 PCS 2 pieces fold or seam at center shoulder 12.6 cm armhole 18.6 side 37.3 hem 28.1 · SA 3 center 59.2 neckline 10.7 · SA 0.7 lengthen or shorten GRAINLINE ease: back 1.4 cm (zones 2–3) ease: front 0.9 cm (zones 2–3) to the shoulder seam 3 · SLEEVE — 2 PCS 2 pieces elbow sleeve seam 47.9 hem 20 · SA 3 sleeve seam 47.9 cap 45.4 lengthen or shorten GRAINLINE // надсечки по сторонам талиевой вытачки спинки zipper end 4 · SKIRT BACK — 2 PCS 2 pcs · with center seam side 60.7 hem 24.5 · SA 3 center seam 60 waist 48.9 lengthen or shorten GRAINLINE // надсечки по сторонам талиевой вытачки полочки zipper end 5 · SKIRT FRONT — 1 PC (FOLD) 1 pc · fold side 60.7 hem 26.5 · SA 3 center 60 waist 46.7 lengthen or shorten WHHm GRAINLINE notch — zipper end (fly) 7 · TROUSER FRONT — 2 PCS 2 pcs side 105.2 hem 22 · SA 3 inseam 78.2 center 28.5 waist 37.2 lengthen or shorten GRAINLINE 8 · TROUSER BACK — 2 PCS 2 pcs side 105.4 hem 22 · SA 3 inseam 77.9 center seam 33.6 waist 47.1 lengthen or shorten WHKHm stretch the back neckline 0.3–0.5 cm (pressing) shrink the back armhole 0.5–1 cm (pressing) shrink the elbow edge (pressing) side 37.3 cm side 37.3 cm armhole 43.1 cm inseam 78.2 cm side 105.1 cm cap 45.4 cm Basic pattern v3 · seam allowances included B 96 · W 78 · H 104 cm · semi-fitted · classic patternmaking Legend: Solid line — cutting outline (piece edge incl. seam allowance) Dashed line — stitching (seam) line; allowances: seams 1 cm · neckline 0.7 cm · hem 3 cm Drafted to measurements: B 96 · W 78 · H 104 cm (≈ size 48) Finished: bust 101 cm (B + 5 cm ease) · waist 82 cm · hips 107 cm · length 62 cm Red arrow — grainline · circles — notches (double — back) · wedges — darts Blue edge labels — reference lengths in cm (shoulder, side seam, armhole, cap, inseam) for checking the pattern before cutting Construction lines: B — bust · W — waist · H — hips · Hm — hem · Sh — shoulder; points B1…Hm4 are checkpoints Final dimensions: back width 23.9 cm · front width 26.6 cm · armhole depth 25.5 cm Ease allowances (to half girth): bust +2.5 · waist +1 · hips +1.5 cm Straight skirt (pieces 4–5): length 60 cm · ease waist +1 · hips +2 cm · zipper in the left side seam, end — notch at the hipline Trousers (pieces 7–8): rise H/4+1 · hem width 22 cm · darts 2.5/3.5 cm · zipper end (fly) — notch on the front center edge at the hipline Set the sleeve in by the marks: cap top to the shoulder seam, single notch to the front armhole, double notch to the back armhole; cap ease 2.3 cm (105% of the armhole length); below the notches (zone 1) set in without ease Cap ease zones: back 1.4 cm (zone 2 — 0.7 cm from the double notch, zone 3 — 0.7 cm at the top) · front 0.9 cm (zone 2 — 0.4 cm from the single notch, zone 3 — 0.4 cm) — shrink the cap top with steam Print at 100%! Check the 10 cm gauge line Seam matching (engine calculation) — check with a tape measure on fabric before stitching: Cap/armhole: cap 45.4 cm ↔ armhole 43.1 cm · ease 2.3 cm (ratio 1.052; set-in sleeve, steam-shrunk cap) — OK Sleeve length, absolute range by height: 59 cm · range 57…61 cm · range 57–61 cm for height 170 cm (typical sleeve length 59 cm); the entered measurement is not overridden — the wider range catches gross errors — OK Shoulder seam (back/front): 13.3 cm ↔ 12.6 cm · Δ 0.6 cm (range 0.3…1) · back ease 0.3–1.0 cm after stitching the shoulder dart — OK Side seam (back/front): 37.3 cm ↔ 37.3 cm · Δ 0 cm (range -1…1) · equal within ±1 cm — OK Trouser inseam (back/front): 77.9 cm ↔ 78.2 cm · Δ -0.3 cm (range -2…1) · Δ -2…+1 cm; the back inseam top is lowered (classic), the remainder is stretched out when pressing — OK Trouser side edge (back/front): 105.2 cm ↔ 105.1 cm · Δ 0.2 cm (range -1…1) · equal within ±1 cm — OK Half waist girth (after darts): 41 cm ↔ 40 cm · Δ 1 cm (range -0.4…1.2) · target W/2 + 1 cm ease; up to +1 cm over is a waist-ease allowance (shrinks out when pressing) — OK Half hip girth: 53.5 cm ↔ 53.5 cm · Δ 0 cm (range -0.5…0.5) · equal to H/2 + 1.5 cm ease — hip-width check — OK Skirt half waist girth (after darts): 40 cm ↔ 40 cm · Δ 0 cm (range -0.4…1) · target W/2 + 1 cm ease; excess occurs with a very large hip/waist difference, when standard tapers cannot absorb it (see the second-dart note) — OK
🧥

Jumpsuit

BWHHmShB1B2B3B4W1W2W3W4H1H2H3H4Hm1Hm2Hm3Hm4 10 cm GRAINLINE // плечевой шов — к высшей точке оката W // совмещение бокового шва по талии fold 1 · JUMPSUIT BACK — 1 PC (FOLD) bodice to waist shoulder 13.3 cm armhole 24.5 side 16.7 waist 21.5 center seam 42 neckline 7.3 · SA 0.7 lengthen or shorten GRAINLINE // плечевой шов — к высшей точке оката W // совмещение бокового шва по талии 2 · JUMPSUIT FRONT — 2 PCS bodice to waist · 2 pieces shoulder 12.6 cm armhole 18.6 side 16.7 waist 24.3 center 39.2 neckline 10.7 · SA 0.7 lengthen or shorten GRAINLINE ease: back 1.4 cm (zones 2–3) ease: front 0.9 cm (zones 2–3) to the shoulder seam 3 · SLEEVE — 2 PCS 2 pieces elbow sleeve seam 47.9 hem 20 · SA 3 sleeve seam 47.9 cap 45.4 lengthen or shorten GRAINLINE 3 · TROUSER FRONT — 2 PCS 2 pcs side 105.1 hem 22 · SA 3 inseam 78.2 center 28.5 waist 37.7 lengthen or shorten GRAINLINE notch — zipper end 4 · TROUSER BACK — 2 PCS 2 pcs side 105.3 hem 22 · SA 3 inseam 77.9 center seam 33.6 waist 47.6 lengthen or shorten WHKHm stretch the back neckline 0.3–0.5 cm (pressing) shrink the back armhole 0.5–1 cm (pressing) shrink the elbow edge (pressing) side 16.7 cm side 16.7 cm armhole 43.1 cm inseam 78.2 cm side 105 cm cap 45.4 cm Basic pattern v3 · seam allowances included B 96 · W 78 · H 104 cm · semi-fitted · classic patternmaking Legend: Solid line — cutting outline (piece edge incl. seam allowance) Dashed line — stitching (seam) line; allowances: seams 1 cm · neckline 0.7 cm · hem 3 cm Drafted to measurements: B 96 · W 78 · H 104 cm (≈ size 48) Finished: bust 101 cm (B + 5 cm ease) · waist 82 cm · hips 107 cm · length 42 cm Red arrow — grainline · circles — notches (double — back) · wedges — darts Blue edge labels — reference lengths in cm (shoulder, side seam, armhole, cap, inseam) for checking the pattern before cutting Construction lines: B — bust · W — waist · H — hips · Hm — hem · Sh — shoulder; points B1…Hm4 are checkpoints Final dimensions: back width 23.9 cm · front width 26.6 cm · armhole depth 25.5 cm Ease allowances (to half girth): bust +2.5 · waist +1 · hips +1.5 cm Комбинезон: лиф до талии (дет. 1–2) + брюки (дет. 3–4), отрезной по талии · застёжка — потайная молния в среднем шве спинки · конец молнии — надсечка на среднем срезе спинки брюк в 20 cm ниже талии · талия лифа и брюк сбалансирована (cm. баланс срезов) Set the sleeve in by the marks: cap top to the shoulder seam, single notch to the front armhole, double notch to the back armhole; cap ease 2.3 cm (105% of the armhole length); below the notches (zone 1) set in without ease Cap ease zones: back 1.4 cm (zone 2 — 0.7 cm from the double notch, zone 3 — 0.7 cm at the top) · front 0.9 cm (zone 2 — 0.4 cm from the single notch, zone 3 — 0.4 cm) — shrink the cap top with steam Print at 100%! Check the 10 cm gauge line Seam matching (engine calculation) — check with a tape measure on fabric before stitching: Cap/armhole: cap 45.4 cm ↔ armhole 43.1 cm · ease 2.3 cm (ratio 1.052; set-in sleeve, steam-shrunk cap) — OK Sleeve length, absolute range by height: 59 cm · range 57…61 cm · range 57–61 cm for height 170 cm (typical sleeve length 59 cm); the entered measurement is not overridden — the wider range catches gross errors — OK Shoulder seam (back/front): 13.3 cm ↔ 12.6 cm · Δ 0.6 cm (range 0.3…1) · back ease 0.3–1.0 cm after stitching the shoulder dart — OK Side seam (back/front): 16.7 cm ↔ 16.7 cm · Δ 0 cm (range -1…1) · equal within ±1 cm — OK Waistline (bodice/trousers): 41 cm ↔ 41 cm · Δ 0 cm (range -1.5…1.5) · equal within ±1.5 cm; bodice excess is waist ease — OK Trouser inseam (back/front): 77.9 cm ↔ 78.2 cm · Δ -0.3 cm (range -2…1) · Δ -2…+1 cm; the back inseam top is lowered (classic), the remainder is stretched out when pressing — OK Trouser side edge (back/front): 105.2 cm ↔ 105 cm · Δ 0.2 cm (range -1…1) · equal within ±1 cm — OK Half waist girth (after darts): 41 cm ↔ 40 cm · Δ 1 cm (range -0.4…1.2) · target W/2 + 1 cm ease; up to +1 cm over is a waist-ease allowance (shrinks out when pressing) — OK Half hip girth: 53.5 cm ↔ 53.5 cm · Δ 0 cm (range -0.5…0.5) · equal to H/2 + 1.5 cm ease — hip-width check — OK
👗

Sundress

BWHHmShB1B2B3B4W1W2W3W4H1H2H3H4Hm1Hm2Hm3Hm4 10 cm // надсечки по сторонам талиевой вытачки (при рельефах/кокетке вытачка переведена — не ставим) // v14.47: надсечка верха шлицы + подпись GRAINLINE // плечевой шов — к высшей точке оката // совмещение бокового шва по талии (спинка — двойная) W // контроль линии бёдер H W // середина спинки: талия H // середина спинки: бёдра notch — zipper end (hipline) // v14.11: конец потайной молнии среднего шва widen 6,0 cm 1 · DRESS BACK — 2 PCS (CENTER SEAM, ZIPPER) 2 pcs · center seam with an invisible zipper up to the hipline shoulder 13.3 cm armhole 24.5 side 75.5 hem 31.4 · SA 3 center seam 100 neckline 7.6 · SA 0.7 lengthen or shorten // надсечки по сторонам талиевой вытачки GRAINLINE // плечевой шов — к высшей точке оката // совмещение бокового шва по талии (полочка — одинарная) W // контроль линии бёдер H // v14.47: метка верха боковой шлицы (без бочка — на полочке) W // средний перед: талия H // средний перед: бёдра taper 6,0 cm 2 · DRESS FRONT — 1 PC (FOLD) 1 piece · fold at center front shoulder 12.6 cm armhole 18.6 side 75.5 hem 34.1 · SA 3 center 97.2 neckline 10.7 · SA 0.7 lengthen or shorten GRAINLINE ease: back 1.4 cm (zones 2–3) ease: front 0.9 cm (zones 2–3) to the shoulder seam 3 · SLEEVE — 2 PCS 2 pieces elbow sleeve seam 47.9 hem 20 · SA 3 sleeve seam 47.9 cap 45.4 lengthen or shorten stretch the back neckline 0.3–0.5 cm (pressing) shrink the back armhole 0.5–1 cm (pressing) shrink the elbow edge (pressing) side 75.5 cm side 75.5 cm armhole 43.1 cm cap 45.4 cm Basic pattern v3 · seam allowances included B 96 · W 78 · H 104 cm · semi-fitted · classic patternmaking Legend: Solid line — cutting outline (piece edge incl. seam allowance) Dashed line — stitching (seam) line; allowances: seams 1 cm · neckline 0.7 cm · hem 3 cm Drafted to measurements: B 96 · W 78 · H 104 cm (≈ size 48) Finished: bust 101 cm (B + 5 cm ease) · waist 82 cm · hips 107 cm · length 100 cm Red arrow — grainline · circles — notches (double — back) · wedges — darts Blue edge labels — reference lengths in cm (shoulder, side seam, armhole, cap, inseam) for checking the pattern before cutting Construction lines: B — bust · W — waist · H — hips · Hm — hem · Sh — shoulder; points B1…Hm4 are checkpoints Final dimensions: back width 23.9 cm · front width 26.6 cm · armhole depth 25.5 cm Ease allowances (to half girth): bust +2.5 · waist +1 · hips +1.5 cm A-line dress (pieces 1–2): knee length · 6 cm flare at the side · darts transferred into the flare · closure — invisible zipper in the back center seam up to the hipline · zipper end — notch on the center edge at the hipline Set the sleeve in by the marks: cap top to the shoulder seam, single notch to the front armhole, double notch to the back armhole; cap ease 2.3 cm (105% of the armhole length); below the notches (zone 1) set in without ease Cap ease zones: back 1.4 cm (zone 2 — 0.7 cm from the double notch, zone 3 — 0.7 cm at the top) · front 0.9 cm (zone 2 — 0.4 cm from the single notch, zone 3 — 0.4 cm) — shrink the cap top with steam Print at 100%! Check the 10 cm gauge line Seam matching (engine calculation) — check with a tape measure on fabric before stitching: Cap/armhole: cap 45.4 cm ↔ armhole 43.1 cm · ease 2.3 cm (ratio 1.052; set-in sleeve, steam-shrunk cap) — OK Sleeve length, absolute range by height: 59 cm · range 57…61 cm · range 57–61 cm for height 170 cm (typical sleeve length 59 cm); the entered measurement is not overridden — the wider range catches gross errors — OK Shoulder seam (back/front): 13.3 cm ↔ 12.6 cm · Δ 0.6 cm (range 0.3…1) · back ease 0.3–1.0 cm after stitching the shoulder dart — OK Side seam (back/front): 75.5 cm ↔ 75.5 cm · Δ 0 cm (range -1…1) · equal within ±1 cm — OK Half waist girth (after darts): 41 cm ↔ 40 cm · Δ 1 cm (range -0.4…1.2) · target W/2 + 1 cm ease; up to +1 cm over is a waist-ease allowance (shrinks out when pressing) — OK Half hip girth: 53.5 cm ↔ 53.5 cm · Δ 0 cm (range -0.5…0.5) · equal to H/2 + 1.5 cm ease — hip-width check — OK

Already have an account? Sign in — the catalog is also available in your account.